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Tom Hornbein, 1963 Everest West Ridge pioneer, dies aged 92
08/05/2023 - Alpinism
Tom Hornbein, 1963 Everest West Ridge pioneer, dies aged 92
Tom Hornbein, the formidable American mountaineer famous above all for his groundbreaking first ascent of the West Ridge of Everest in 1963 with Willi Unsoeld, has died aged 92.
Tom Livingstone, Rob Smith climb NW Face of Aiguille du Blaitiere
28/04/2023 - Alpinism
Tom Livingstone, Rob Smith climb NW Face of Aiguille du Blaitiere
British mountaineer Livingstone reports about his January ascent with Rob Smith of the North-West face of Aiguille du Blaitiere (3522m) in the Mont Blanc massif. In all likelihood the second half of their climb shares the line ascended by Joe...
Brezno pod Velbom icefall repeated inside Monte Canin by Nicola Bertoldo, Diego Dellai, Marco Toldo
27/04/2023 - Alpinism
Brezno pod Velbom icefall repeated inside Monte Canin by Nicola Bertoldo, Diego Dellai, Marco Toldo
Nicola Bertoldo, Diego Dellai and Marco Toldo belonging to the Roccia 4 Gatti di Arsiero mountaineering club have climbed the enormous icefall located inside the Brezno pod Velbom cave, at an altitude of 2050m on the Slovenian side of Monte...
Mezzalama Trophy 2023 / Italians dominate most technical race course ever
26/04/2023 - Competitions
Mezzalama Trophy 2023 / Italians dominate most technical race course ever
Mission complete on Monte Rosa: the Italian military corp Alpini won the XXIII edition of the Mezzalama Trophy. Matteo Eydallin, Robert Antonioli and Davide Magnini dominated the men's event, while Giulia Murada, Giulia Compagnoni and Alba De Silvestro clinched a...
Triglav Čop Pillar climbed solo by Gašper Pintar
18/04/2023 - Alpinism
Triglav Čop Pillar climbed solo by Gašper Pintar
The report by Slovenian alpinist Gašper Pintar who on 28 and 29 March 2023 completed a remarkable solo climb of the famous Čop Pillar on the North Face of Triglav in Slovenia. Although technically no longer in the calendar winter,...
Big new route on Mount Dickey in Alaska by Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell, Alan Rousseau
11/04/2023 - Alpinism
Big new route on Mount Dickey in Alaska by Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell, Alan Rousseau
Over a three day period Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell and Alan Rousseau established a new mixed climb up the East Face of Mount Dickey in the Ruth Gorge of Alaska, 'Aim for the bushes' (AI6M6X 5250).
Watch the 1963 first ascent of the Central Tower of Paine in Patagonia
08/04/2023 - Alpinism
Watch the 1963 first ascent of the Central Tower of Paine in Patagonia
The documentary of the first ascent of the Central Tower of Paine in Patagonia, completed on 16 January 1963 by British mountaineers Chris Bonington and Don Whillans.
Sardinia climbing: three multipitches by Marco Pellegrini on Baunei's Punta su Mulone
07/04/2023 - Alpinism
Sardinia climbing: three multipitches by Marco Pellegrini on Baunei's Punta su Mulone
Marco Pellegrini has made the first ascent of three multipitch sport climbs up the south face of Punta su Mulone above Pedra Longa in the Baunei area of Sardinia, Italy: 'Penso Positivo' with Manuel Zambanini, 'Giumar' with Giulia Orlandi and...
Stefano Ragazzo completes winter solo of Moulin Rouge on Rotwand, Dolomites
03/04/2023 - Alpinism
Stefano Ragazzo completes winter solo of Moulin Rouge on Rotwand, Dolomites
On 17 March 2023 Stefano Ragazzo made a solo ascent of 'Moulin Rouge' on Roda de Vael (2806m) in the Rosengarten group of the Dolomites, Italy. After the first winter ascent in 2005 by Nicola Tondini and Nicola Sartori, this...
Fay Manners, Freja Shannon discover 'How not to' on Senja in Norway
30/03/2023 - Alpinism
Fay Manners, Freja Shannon discover 'How not to' on Senja in Norway
Alpinists Fay Manners and Freja Shannon have made the first ascent of 'How not to' (M5, 250m) on the north face of Grytetippen on the island of Senja in Norway.
On Aiguille des Pèlerins Tom Livingstone & Symon Welfringer establish La Croisade
29/03/2023 - Alpinism
On Aiguille des Pèlerins Tom Livingstone & Symon Welfringer establish La Croisade
Tom Livingstone & Symon Welfringer have made the first ascent of 'La Croisade', a mixed climb that after sharing the start of 'Beyond Good and Evil' and 'Les Flammes de l’enfer', breaches the obvious roof on the north face of...
Yacaré on Aguja Rafael Juárez in Patagonia first ascended by Pedro Odell, Tomas Odell
27/03/2023 - Alpinism
Yacaré on Aguja Rafael Juárez in Patagonia first ascended by Pedro Odell, Tomas Odell
On 01/02/2023 Argentine climbers Pedro Odell and Tomas Odell made the first ascent of Yacaré on the east face of Aguja Rafael Juárez in Patagonia. The 550m route was graded 6c+/A0 and climbed free a week later by Sean Villanueva...
First ascent of Oqatssut Wall in Greenland by Paweł Hałdaś, Marcin Tomaszewski
08/03/2023 - Alpinism
First ascent of Oqatssut Wall in Greenland by Paweł Hałdaś, Marcin Tomaszewski
Marcin Tomaszewski reports about the first ascent of FRAM, a technical 700m climb on Oqatssut Wall on the West coast of Greenland established from 10 - 24 February 2023 with Paweł Hałdaś. This is the first route on the mountain...
Pizzo Badile Corti-Battaglia first winter ascent by David Hefti, Marcel Schenk
02/03/2023 - Alpinism
Pizzo Badile Corti-Battaglia first winter ascent by David Hefti, Marcel Schenk
On 14 February 2023 Swiss mountaineers David Hefti and Marcel Schenk made the coveted first winter ascent of the Corti-Battaglia route on Pizzo Badile (3308m). Established in 1953 by Claudio Corti and Felice Battaglia, this climb was the first to...
Jost Kobusch climbs Denali’s Messner Couloir solo and in winter
23/02/2023 - Alpinism
Jost Kobusch climbs Denali’s Messner Couloir solo and in winter
German alpinist Jost Kobusch has successfully climbed the Messner Couloir on Denali in Alaska in winter and solo. He is the first person to repeat this route in the coldest season.
Minteke Valley: Muhz Teke, Pik Sindre, Pik Luis and other Dutch climbs in Pamir-Alay, Kyrgyzstan
21/02/2023 - Alpinism
Minteke Valley: Muhz Teke, Pik Sindre, Pik Luis and other Dutch climbs in Pamir-Alay, Kyrgyzstan
The climbing expedition report to Minteke Valley, Pamir-Alay, Kyrgyzstan, carried out by Dutch climbers Noor van der Veen, Regien Winnubst, Martin Platteschor, Dennis Hendrikx, Robert Löwensteyn, Sjoerd Boersma, Michiel Telkamp, Jeffrey Meesters, Anniek Verschuur, Bas Visscher, Court Haegens and Boris...

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