620 News found

French alpinist and mountain guide Jérôme Sullivan reports about Mad Max, a new route up the East Face of Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif established from 8-9 July 2020 with Jérémy Brauge and Victor Saucède.

The historic Cassin - Ratti route the north face of Cima Ovest di Lavaredo in the Dolomites, established by Riccardo Cassin and Vittorio Ratti with two bivouacs from 28-30 August 1935, is a landmark in climbing history. Italian Mountain Guide Carlo Cosi recalls his summer 2019 repeat with Sara Mastel.

On the famous Aguglia di Goloritzè tower above Cala Goloritzè in Sardinia Maurizio Oviglia has rebolted Sole Incantatore, the most repeated multi-pitch rock climb on the island. Oviglia himself established the route in 1995.

Tom, the film by Angel Esteban and Elena Goatelli, is now online. This documents the attempt of British mountaineer Tom Ballard to become the first to solo in the same winter season the six great North Faces of the Alps: Cima Grande di Lavaredo, Pizzo Badile, Matterhorn, Grandes Jorasses, Petit...

Joe Brown, one of the world’s greatest all-round climbers, passed away last night aged 89. Brown pioneered climbs throughout Great Britain, the Alps and the Greater Ranges in particular in the 1950's and '60's. Cenotaph Corner on Dinas Cromlech in Wales and the first ascent of Kangchenjunga (8586m) in Nepal...

Hannes Hofer reports about the repeat carried out on 11 January 2020 with Mark Oberlechner of Tiroler Wasser, Acqua Tirolese, a mixed climb up Piz Ciavazes (Sella, Dolomites) established in 2013 by Kurt Astner and Rudolf Hauser.

At the end of February and start of March Spanish mountaineers Luis Penín and David López Sáenz made the first ascent of the mixed climb Gaia (175m, M12?, WI6+) at Ehrwald in Austria.

Winter mountaineering in the Zoldo Dolomites: on Rocchetta Alta di Bosconero the mountaineers Mirco Grasso and Alvaro Lafuente have made the first ascent of Apus, a mixed route that shares the first 5 pitches of Madre Tierra then ascends an evident gully all the way to the summit. Grasso reports

South Tyrolean mountain guide Hannes Pfeifhofer reports about the first ascent of Zsigmondycouloir on the Zsigmondykopf up Elferkofel in Sexten Dolomites, established with Hannes Egarter

Spanish mountain guide Santiago Padrós reports about a big new winter climb up Rocchetta Alta di Bosconero (2412m) in the Zoldo Dolomites, established on 30/01/2020 with Diego Toigo. The mixed outing is called Madre Tierra and was completed after a failed first attempt with Giovanni Andriano and Ruggero Arena.

On Sass de la Crusc / Heiligkreuzkofel in the Dolomites, the South Tyrolean mountaineers Simon Messner and Manuel Baumgartner have made the first ascent of Rapunzel, a new ice and mixed climb graded WI6+ M7+.

On 10/01/2019 Christoph Hainz and Manuel Baumgartner made the first ascent of Barba Bianca, a new mixed climb in Val Travenanzes, Dolomites.

From 16 to 17 December 2019, after a day of reconnaissance, alpinists Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini established Pandora (600m, V, M5, A0, WI6) up the west face of Pordoi (Dolomites) . This ice and mixed climb links via Abram with via Niagara and tackles the huge hanging icefall that...

In Langental (Val Gardena, Dolomites) Daniel Ladurner and Hannes Lemayer have made the first ascent of Happy New Year, a two-pitch mixed route graded M6+.

On 27/12/2019 Simon Messner and Martin Sieberer made the first ascent of Seitensprung, a new ice climb in Val Lietres - Langental, Dolomites.

Mirco Grasso, Daniel Ladurner, Santiago Padrós have made the first ascent of Para arriba, nach unten e bevilo! in the Val de Mesdi, Sella group, Dolomites. The two-pitch icefall was established ground-up with pegs and bolts, and has been graded M8 WI5. Grasso reports.