Mélissa Le Nevé, the Wallstreet interview

Melissa, of all the hard routes in the Frankenjura, why did you choose Wallstreet
I really wanted to try this route for two reasons: first of all because i really like the history and this route and with it Wolfgang Güllich set an important milestone in the history of sport climbing. The other reason why I really wanted to climb this route is connected to the its name, Wallstreet reminds me of Pink Floyd and their album The Wall. Not long ago I was really into this music and I’ve got great memories from my time in Bordeaux, spending time with Alizée Dufraisse. Two good reasons to at least give it a go!

Tell us about the start
I tried the route for the first time last October, for 2 days before flying to the Sisu Master in Finland. Unfortunately conditions were awful, and I returned to the Frankenjura 2 weeks ago with this route in mind.

How did it feel? And tell us about that heel hook! It looks like a new sequence!
I had good sensations right at the start and yes, I managed to find a crazy method using my left heel hook. For me this was a way better sequence to grab the weird two finger pocket. I first thought I’d send the route quickly, in just a few days, but I was wrong and it took me longer time than I thought...

The route is really powerful. How many attempts could you give it each day?
I think I could have given it about 6 decent tries a day, but then the next day I’d have felt totally mashed! So mostly I did 2, 3 perhaps 4 attempts, depending on conditions. I needed to make productive attempts, but also be able to climb the next day!

The crux is at the top
I got very close to doing the last move, with its really crimpy undercling, around 10 times but I always fell. Then a friend showed me another hold and asked "why don’t you use this one?" "Its just too far and way too small…" I replied. But I tried it just in case and it suddenly seemed way better! And next day I did the route!

Does the Frankenjura suit your style?
At first I thought no, it doesn’t. Because of the many two finger pockets… I was really scared of injuring my fingers! But I have to say it seems as if I’ve got used to them ;-)

How does this route compare in terms of difficulty and excitement?
This route was totally different! So far this is the longest I’ve had to work for to get a route or boulder and in fact the sensations I had were closer to bouldering than sport climbing. I realised I needed to be way more precise than usual. For example, just changing the angle of the crux hold by 1° made all the difference, I could hold it well but it hurt too! I knew I could do all the moves, but I needed to stay concentrated 100%, there was no room for mistakes.

So what next?
Well I’d like to spend more time outside to try harder stuff, but in general I consider climbing a very complete sport and I’m always motivated by a challenge, where it is. I like pushing myself, physically and mentally, in different types of situations. Competitions, boulders, sport climbs, multi-pitch routes, whatever!

Last question: Wallstreet happens to be one of your first routes in the Frankenjura
Yes, I haven’t spent much time here and I’ve still got lots to discover in this huge forest. It’s magical!