Melloblocco 2025, boulders that shine like diamonds in the forest

"The end result is something beautiful that remains for a long, long time." This is how our call begins with Matteo De Zaiacomo, who along with Andrea Pavan leads the Melloblocco 2025 setting team. Those working alongside the two are Maximiliano Piazza, Isacco Saini and Emanuele Ticozzi, responsible for the competition boulders, and obviously the entire Val Masino Climbing Association, taking care of brushing the climbing areas and maintaining the paths.

Matteo, how's it going up in the valley?
Good! This is our third year working as the route-setting team for Melloblocco, by now I reckon we’ve got the hang of it. The first year, the restart, was a bit of a gamble to tell the truth, especially because we had very little time. Last year we opted for a hybrid approach: rediscovering areas from past editions that had fallen into disuse, and proposing some new projects. This year we'll do the same — enhance the existing areas, but this time we've got even more projects.

How come?
Because of the feedback we received last year. People loved rediscovering areas that were cleaned years ago, but they also really like the idea of new projects — there's the surprise, dealing with the unknown. Knowing there’s a brand-new boulder, never climbed before, not knowing the grade or whether it’s even doable… It’s good fun, both for us setters and for those taking part in the event. It’s all part of the greater game of bouldering. So this year, the plan is to have six new boulders: three for women and three for men.

Where do you even find them?!
You’re right! People have been climbing in this valley for over 60 years, so it’s not easy. I suppose if you’re willing to hike for four hours, maybe you’ll find something new, but the real challenge for us is finding something beautiful that’s not too far from the village. Maybe an hour’s hike, but something spectacular to make it worth the walk! So far, we’re happy with what we’ve found. Of course, we’ve brushed boulders, cleaned the landings, and prepared the approach paths. There’s a lot of extra work behind the scenes, but the end result is something beautiful that remains for a long, long time. We’re excited — it’s gonna be a great event!

Any other news?
Well, we don’t want to reveal too much yet, but since Melloblocco is a festival, different from all other weekends, we can try things that would normally be hard to pull off during the year. We’ll bring some huge crash pads, Brazz will help us out, so those who want to push themselves a little bit higher can go for it — we've got some highballs in mind. Nothing crazy, but cool for anyone who feels like stepping a little outside their comfort zone.

Same village setup as last year in San Martino?
Yes, but even bigger. As usual it's the hub and starting point to reach all the areas, from Visido down in Val Masino all the way up to Lago del Bidet della Contessa in Val di Mello. On foot, crash pad on your back, as always.

How are conditions in the valley right now?
A bit humid, to be honest, but the climbing is amazing. A lot of snow has fallen up high, so the streams will be gushing with water fairly soon, and the colors are already amazing. Just yesterday, after cleaning the boulders, we walked back down and the boulders shone like diamonds in the forest. That's pretty cool.