Melloblocco 2015: masterpiece climbing circuits in the valley of bouldering
MELLOBLOCCO 2015: 3 MASTERPIECE CIRCUITS IN VAL DI MELLO
by Michele Comi
I’m leafing through "Escalade 'Hors-piste' à Fontainebleau" - autographed by Jacky Godoffe, a beautiful present he gave me after his memorable route setting in 2006 along with other artists and virtuosos rock athletes such as Loris Manzana and Mario Prinoth and I browse past the numerous "circuits" that are always extremely popular on the magnificent "grès" on the outskirts of Paris.
Why not try something similar, on the Masino "gneiss" and "ghiandone", using some historical problems chosen from among the countless boulders on offer, so as to enable everyone to follow are circuit in addition to the superb competition problems set every year by Simone Pedeferri?
And so three circuits were created for authentic bouldering aficionados, that meander through the Valley and connecting the most important problems, those most beautiful in the most unique settings.
In short, it’s a concentrated mix of sensations and images that we recommend to the colorful and bubbly boulderers, a small tip to immerse yourself fully into this Melloblocco 2015.
INSTRUCTIONS
The boulder problems are indicated by a coloured pine cone: yellow for the Sassisti circuit; orange for the Melat circuit; red for Gigiat circuit.
Report to the Melloblocco stand by Saturday 2 May 2 al the problems you have climbed.
Your name will be added to the "bouldering club" published on www.melloblocco.it
We welcome photos and video of the climbs (published on instagram with the hashtag #melloblocco #mellocircuit, or send files or links to promo@melloblocco.it)
THE CIRCUITS
1: I Sassisti (5-6A) - YELLOW
This takes the name from the historic climbers who first explored the valley’s bouldering potential in the 70s. The circuit brings to the forefront their initial achievements. How can one not marvel at the beauty of the moves, bold and revolutionary for their time, on the boulders such as Tendine dello Yeti, Preda Peintada or Masso della Luna?
1. Il tendine dello Yeti
2. Il masso del tetto
3. Il panino
4. La preda peintada
5. Masso del Francese
6. Masso dell’Ivan
7. I tre strapiombi dei veronesi
8. Muro di Jessica
9. Masso della luna
10. Geodes
2: IL MELÀT (6B-6C) - ORANGE
I Melat erano gli antichi abitanti della Val di Mello e le loro scalinate megalitiche in pietra testimoniano di quanta forza e tenacia disponessero per raggiungere i pascoli più remoti ed inaccessibili. Una buona dose di forza e resistenza servirà per collezionare i dieci passaggi del circuito, che include delle autentiche chicche come il Francese o il Sass de la Polenta.
The Melat were the ancient inhabitants of the Val di Mello and their megalithic stones steps are testament to the strength and tenacity needed to reach the most remote and inaccessible pastures. You will certainly require a good deal of strength and endurance climb all ten problems in this circuit that includes authentic works of art such as il Francese or il Sass de la Polenta.
1. Il diedrino del Rudi
2. L’arco del tetto
3. Titanic
4. Preda peintada
5. Il francese
6. Dr. Zero (stand)
7. Masso della grotta
8. Il lupo
9. Il traverso della polenta
10. Moby Dick
3: IL GIGIÀT (7A-7B) - RED
The most difficult circuit had to be dedicated to Gigiat: a monstrous, legendary and gigantic being, a cross between a goat and an ibex with long fur. Legend has it that it lives in the forests and among the boulders of Val Masino. Few can claim to have seen him! Completing this circuit and sending some emblematic granite problems such as Vermut Stisciut and Spigolo della Carrozza di Rame means you’re a "master of stone.”
1. Tarzan
2. Lo strapiombo (di sinistra)
3. Andrea si è perso (diretto)
4. Vermuth Strisciut
5. Devil and Dust
6. Fat Boy Slim
7. Zero in condotta
8. Il francese (la placca)
9. Spigolo della carrozza di rame
10. Videogames
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