World Youth Climbing Championships: Bouldering brings second gold for Janja Garnbret, Margo Hayes & Ashima Shiraishi

After rain had forced a cancellation of the Qualifications earlier last week, all Male boulderers automatically qualified for Semi-Finals. Still, only the top six athletes in each category advanced to Finals. Nathan Martin of France and Italian Davide Marco Colombo were tied heading into the final problem after the sole Tops of M3, but a flash by Martin gave him the Youth B victory. Katsura Konishi of Japan picked up another medal with the other Top of M4.

Kai Lightner of the United States came out strong in Youth A by flashing the first Finals problem, but he settled for another Silver when Keita Dohi of Japan completed a crucial Top of M4 before time expired. Dohi’s teammate, Kai Harada, completed two problems for Bronze.

Most Juniors competitors solved the final problem on their first go, but only three athletes recorded additional Tops. Runner-up Baptiste Ometz of Switzerland and William Bosi of Great Britain were strong on M2, but Borna Cujic of Croatia also recorded an incredible flash of M1 for Gold.

For the Females, Garnbret and Shiraishi continued to amaze in Guangzhou. Shiraishi flashed the first three problems on Sunday to secure the double victory. She has yet to lose at the IFSC World Youth Championships! Her American teammate Brooke Raboutou kept Italian Laura Rogora off the podium and added another medal to her week by finding all bonus holds, and Futaba Ito of Japan placed second with one less attempt on two Tops.

Garnbret was in a league of her own in Youth A, completing every problem and flashing two. The next closest competitor was Garnbret’s Slovenian teammate Vita Lukan, who finished two problems in three attempts. American Maya Madere placed third.

Also distinguishing herself in the Finals was Hayes of the United States. No other Juniors finalist completed multiple problems, and this year’s Lead world youth champion sent all four of them. Tara Hayes of Great Britain required the fewest attempts to solve F1, and Austrian Franziska Sterrer won Bronze over IFSC Bouldering World Cup star Miho Nonaka of Japan.

COMBINED - Bouldering, Lead and Speed
Two months after becoming Combined world champion, Elena Krasovskaia of Russia was crowned Combined world youth champion after qualifying for the Finals in all three disciplines. Garnbret also competed in Speed - the first time this season - and finished ahead of Russian Luiza Emeleva. Raboutou claimed the title in Youth B, followed by Austrian Celina Schoibl and Rogora. Finally, Hayes placed 15th in Speed to top her third podium! Andrea Kümin of Switzerland and Russian Iuliia Panteleeva joined her.

For the Males, Avezou also climbed in all three Finals for the unanimous Combined victory. Colombo and Martin rounded out the Youth B podium. Arsène Duval of France and Italian Pietro Biagini climbed in the Lead Finals of Youth A and placed first and third. Finishing second was Pan Yufei of China, who received warm applause from his home crowd. Although Lehmann missed each Finals, his steady performance earned him the Combined win. British Bouldering finalist William Bosi finished in second and German Ruben Firnenburg placed third.

IFSC World Youth Championships - Guangzhou (CHN) - 2016
Female Youth B Boulder
1 Ashima Shiraishi USA 3t3
2 Futaba Ito JPN 2t2
3 Brooke Raboutou USA 2t3
4 Laura Rogora ITA 2t3
5 Sandra Lettner AUT 1t3
6 Frederike Fell GER 1t3
7 Saki Kikuchi JPN
8 Lucka Rakovec SLO
9 Laura Lammer AUT
10 Celina Schoibl AUT
11 Hannah Meul GER
12 Jani Zoraj CRO
13 Ayano Soga JPN
14 Emily Phillips GBR
15 Arabella Jariel USA
16 Natsumi Hirano JPN
17 Vanda Michalková SVK
18 Oceania Mackenzie AUS
19 Sienna Wong AUS
20 Noa Shiran ISR
21 Polina Aksenova RUS
22 Yael Baharad ISR
23 Polina Kulagina RUS
24 Anastasiia Evgeneva RUS
25 Sienna Kopf USA
26 Natalia Kalucka POL
27 Yi Meiyu CHN
28 Eliska Adamovska CZE
28 Lauren Bair USA
30 Maria Benach Zubero ESP
31 Seoyeon Park KOR
32 Lan Kim KOR
33 Sunga Son KOR
34 Daria Veretenina RUS
35 Aleksandra Kalucka POL
35 Giorgia Strazieri ITA
35 Song Yiling CHN
38 Madison Fischer CAN
38 Valeria Villar Moreno MEX
40 Paige Boklaschuk CAN
41 Camilla Cibulka RSA
42 Dagyeong Han KOR
43 Alisson Vizuete ECU
44 Isabella Prehn Nyhuus DEN
45 Xie Yufang CHN
46 Michelle Wingyan Chow HKG
46 Wai-Mui Ling HKG
46 Stefanie Ann Low Su Ying SGP
46 Alyssa Meyer RSA
46 Hannah Sealy-Fisher RSA
46 Abigail Strange RSA
46 Melodie Thio Jing Ling SGP
46 Yongsen Wen CHN
46 Cirrus Yiu Siu-Kuk HKG

Male Youth B Boulder
1 Nathan Martin FRA 3t6
2 Davide Colombo Marco ITA
3 Katsura Konishi JPN 2t3
4 Sam Avezou FRA 1t1
5 Riley Thurstans AUS 1t5
6 Shuhei Yukimaru JPN 0t
7 Clay Gordon USA
8 Roman Neuwirth AUT
9 Zach Richardson CAN
10 Devin Wong USA
11 Fulkerson Ross USA
12 Ilia Danilin RUS
13 Eneko Carretero Cruz ESP
13 Markus Gillberg SWE
13 Eojin Kim KOR
16 Naoki Tsurumoto JPN
17 Nathan Whaley GBR
18 Alessandro Castellani ITA
19 Andoni Esparta Frade ESP
20 David Naude RSA
21 Elias Heinemann GER
22 Manh Ellis CAN
23 Semen Ovchinnikov RUS
24 Peter Kuric SVK
25 Tobias Plangger AUT
26 Luke Goh Wen Bin SGP
26 Olof Morsing SWE
28 Milosz Bujak POL
29 Joe Goodacre USA
30 Alberto Ginés López ESP
31 Teeraphon Boondech THA
31 Naufal Naufal Dani Zikry B Mohamad SGP
33 Mitchell Haight CAN
33 Thor Villegas García MEX
35 Beknur Altynbekov KAZ
35 Minseo Choi KOR
35 Dohyun Lee KOR
35 Stefan Scherz AUT
39 Hyungjun Kim KOR
39 Luka Potocar SLO
39 Alistair Stubbs RSA
42 Tim Bucher SUI
42 Oleg Bushin RUS
42 Ching Huei Chang TPE
42 Jorge Gomez ECU
42 Matthew Jones NZL
42 Tyson Martino CAN
42 Oscar Rivadeneira ECU
42 Viacheslav Volkov RUS

Female Youth A Boulder
1 Janja Garnbret SLO 4t9
2 Vita Lukan SLO 2t3
3 Maya Madere USA 2t4
4 Eva Maria Hammelmüller AUT
5 Elena Krasovskaia RUS 1t1
6 Giulia Medici ITA 1t1
7 Ida Kups POL
8 Luiza Emeleva RUS
9 Bronwen Karnis CAN
10 Johanna Holfeld GER
11 Tjasa Slemensek SLO
12 Laura Stöckler AUT
13 Lucia Dörffel GER
14 Homare Toda JPN
15 Mia Krampl SLO
16 Irina Varik RUS
17 Romy Fuchs GER
18 Viktoriia Meshkova RUS
19 Sophie Buitendyk CAN
20 Alejandra Contreras CHI
21 Jeongran Ko KOR
22 Kokoro Takata JPN
23 Chen Zhuoying CHN
24 Mao Nakamura JPN
25 Elisabetta Dalla Brida ITA
26 Audrey Miller USA
27 Michelle Hulliger SUI
28 Pyrene Santal FRA
29 Ariana Mathews USA
30 Melina Costanza USA
31 Gahee Lee KOR
32 Naama Yohai ISR
33 Lenka Slezakova CZE
34 Margarita Agambayeva KAZ
35 Lisa-Marie Kvandahl NOR
36 Jiwon Bae KOR
36 Nea Herforth Baehr DEN
38 Domenica Haro ECU
39 Georgia Bank USA
39 Yunjung Ju KOR
39 Justine Mccarney CAN
42 Narada Disyabut THA
42 Natalia Wos POL
44 Freja Duncan SWE
45 Valentina Antonenko RUS
46 Mariya Terekhova KAZ
47 Lucy Whitehead NZL
48 Judith Jewell NZL
49 Darya Panfilova KAZ
50 Yu-Chen Lin TPE

Male Youth B Boulder
1 Keita Dohi JPN 3t9
2 Kai Lightner USA 2t3
3 Kai Harada JPN 2t6
4 Nimrod Marcus ISR 1t1
5 Filip Schenk ITA 1t2
6 Dominik Haertl AUT 1t3
7 Nikolai Michurov RUS
8 Petar Ivanov BUL
9 Don Van Laere NED
10 Minyoung Lee KOR
11 Leo Avezou FRA
12 Matic Kotar SLO
13 Arsène Duval FRA
14 Meichi Narasaki JPN
14 Max Prinz GER
16 Pietro Biagini ITA
17 Giorgio Bendazzoli ITA
18 Mikel Asier Linacisoro Molina ESP
19 Song Hualong CHN
19 Jakub Konecny CZE
21 Leo Ketil Bøe NOR
21 Dmitry Golov RUS
21 Sungsu Lee KOR
21 Harold Peeters BEL
25 Yannick Flohé GER
26 Nikolai Iarilovets RUS
27 Pan Yufei CHN
28 Seunghyun Kim KOR
29 Hayato Nakamura JPN
30 Lukas Franckaert BEL
31 Seongmin Eom KOR
32 Luo Yilang CHN
33 Ilia Sitkin RUS
34 Christopher Cosser RSA
35 Sam Struthers USA
36 Jesse Ruffini AUS
37 Galo Hernandez ECU
38 Vojtech Trojan CZE
39 Brett Walker USA
40 Bobby Taft Pittman USA
41 Mathias Posch AUT
41 Josef Sundakov- Krumins AUS
43 Samuel Wingardh SWE
44 Love Ymer Alber SWE
45 Matteo Manzoni ITA
46 Mark Chan Chong Kiat SGP
47 Paul Emmanuel Ryan SGP
48 Damien Blokker RSA
48 Tay Kuan Liang SGP
48 Valeriy Serdyuk KAZ
48 Matt Wright CAN
52 Carlos Granja ECU
52 Tiange Huang CHN
52 Thomas Waldin NZL
55 Joshua Damasco AUS
55 Zhou Jinyao CHN
55 Oliver Soar NZL
55 Mykhayil Tkachuk UKR
59 Pak-Hei Lau HKG
60 Samuel Munday NZL
61 Nicholas Meinel RSA
62 Viktor Trpovski MKD
63 Alon Hagity ISR
63 Joshua Munstermann RSA

Female Junior Boulder
1 Margo Hayes USA 4t12
2 Tara Hayes GBR 1t3
3 Franziska Sterrer AUT 1t4
4 Miho Nonaka JPN 1t6
5 Johanna Färber AUT 1t7
6 Serika Okawachi JPN 0t
7 Stasa Gejo SRB
8 Evgeniya Lapshina RUS
9 Molly Thompson- Smith GBR
10 Andrea Kümin SUI
11 Alina Ring SUI
12 Mei Kotake JPN
13 Sofya Yokoyama SUI
14 Iuliia Panteleeva RUS
15 Julija Kruder SLO
16 Lia Wieckowski CAN
17 Claire Buhrfeind USA
18 Paloma Simon FRA
19 Minseon Kim KOR
20 Hannah Schubert AUT
21 Mariia Musienko RUS
22 Kajsa Rosen SWE
23 Megan Lynch USA
24 Elena Paukova RUS
25 Heloïse Doumont BEL
26 Solveig Korherr GER
27 Julia Fiser AUT
28 Jara Späte SUI
29 Veronika Scheuerova CZE
30 Victoria Perkins USA
31 Roxy Perry AUS
32 Xiran Wang CHN
33 Assel Marlenova KAZ
34 Elizabeth Vince CAN
35 Elaine Sterrett AUS
36 Guo Hui Ping SGP
36 Wei Deryl Ng SGP
38 Shania Gibson NZL
39 Patrycja Chudziak POL
39 Kaely Hoong Kai Li SGP

Male Junior Boulder
1 Borna Cujic CRO 3t6
2 Baptiste Ometz SUI 2t2
3 William Bosi GBR 2t3
4 Nicolas Collin BEL 1t1
5 Georg Parma AUT 1t1
6 Nicolas Pelorson FRA 1t2
7 Ryohei Kameyama JPN 1t3
8 James Pope GBR
9 Ruben Firnenburg GER
10 Jan-Luca Posch AUT
11 Nathan Smith CAN
12 Sascha Lehmann SUI
13 Charles Albert FRA
14 Sergei Bydtaev RUS
15 Alex Waterhouse GBR
16 Alexander Averdunk GER
17 Mattéo Rousseau FRA
18 Benjamin Ayala CHI
19 Yoshiyuki Ogata JPN
20 William Ridal GBR
21 Austin Hansel USA
22 Kyle Murdoch CAN
23 Anze Peharc SLO
24 Jules Nicouleau Bourles FRA
24 Oleg Peysakhovich RUS
24 Fedir Samoilov UKR
24 Dimitri Vogt SUI
28 Matthias Erber AUT
29 Simon Lorenzi BEL
30 Yuval Shemla ISR
31 Oliver Marx RSA
31 Dmitrii Popov RUS
33 Ryan Goh Boon Hwee SGP
34 Héctor Adrián Martínez Cordero MEX
35 Yu Jie Hui SGP
36 Merey Orazbekov KAZ
36 Lucas Uchida CAN
38 Campbell Harrison AUS
38 Danny Valencia ECU
38 Gao Xiong CHN
41 Younghyun Kim KOR
42 Chia Hsiang Lin TPE
42 Alimzhan Myrzabekov KAZ
44 Ludovico Fossali ITA
45 Rolf Fredrik Serlachius SWE
46 Stefano Carnati ITA
47 Alistair Earley AUS
47 Li Xinghui CHN
49 Danil Zakirov RUS
50 Ben Abel AUS
50 Hristo Altanchev BUL
50 Donghyun Kim KOR
50 Sangmin Kim KOR
50 Or Miniely ISR
50 Luke Muehring USA
50 Alexey Panfilov KAZ
50 Thattana Raksachat THA
50 Juanjose Valenzuela CHI
50 Fengqi Wang CHN
50 Ilhan Yoo KOR