Lučka Rakovec and Adam Ondra crowned European Climbing Champions in Edinburgh

Adam Ondra takes gold in Edinburgh 2019. The recently crowned Lead World Champion had travelled to Scotland intent on winning practically the only title missing from his long list of victories and after looking solid all weekend, in particular on the fierce and finger semifinal, he battled to just within the top of the perfectly set, nigh-50 move route. His amazing performance ignited the freezing cold former quarry as he powered a full 7 holds higher than second placed Alberto Ginés López. The young Spaniard is certainly this year’s standout athlete and his ability to battle on regardless of his pump really is quite outstanding. Sascha Lehmann climbed superbly too and placed third, his hand slipping off a hold when he could possibly have climbed even higher, beating martin Bergant from Slovenia on countback, Marcus Nimrod and James Pope. Jakob Schubert slipped inexplicably low while setting up for the dyno, while 17-year-old Luka Potar in his first senior final appearance placed eighth, after unfortunately misreading the route low down.

Big names had chosen not to take part in these European Championships including Stefano Ghisolfi, Marcello Bombardi and, in the women’s event, Janja Garnbret which obviously provided an immense opportunity for others to win the coveted title. Three of her team-mates qualified for the final, demonstrating once again the huge depth of talent coming out of Slovenia, and it was 18-year-old Lučka Rakovec - on her first senior podium at Kranj last week - who took up the baton and climbed to half a move from the top to claim gold. Time has been an issue for Laura Rogora in the past and here too she found herself battling against the clock towards the top and, forced to rush things, she fell just before Rakovec’s highpoint. Luce Douady from France had been the first out and when she entered the crux top sequence no one knew that her outstanding ascent would net her silver. 21- times world Cup winner and former European Champion Mina Markovic had looked incredible impressive in the semis but became unravelled towards the top of the finals to place fourth, ahead of Jessica Pilz, Tina Johnson Hafsaas, Tjasa Kalan. Last out Anak Verhoven had climbed utterly convincingly this morning, timing out but nevertheless topping out in the semis, yet she somehow fell low down on the dyno rightwards and placed what can only be, for her, a highly disappointing eighth.

On Saturday night the European Speed Championships was won by Vladislav Deulin and Aleksandra Miroslaw, while Mariia Krasavina and Danyil Boldyrev took silver and Anouck Jaubert and Dmitrii Tomofeev took bronze.

LEAD
Women
1 Lucka Rakovec SLO 46+
2 Laura Rogora ITA 45+
3 Luce Douady FRA 43
4 Mina Markovic SLO 42+
5 Jessica Pilz AUT 42
6 Tina Johnsen Hafsaas NOR 39
7 Tjasa Kalan SLO 22+
8 Anak Verhoeven BEL 21+
9 Camille Pouget FRA
10 Anne-Sophie Koller SUI
11 Mia Krampl SLO
12 Molly Thompson-Smith GBR
13 Nika Potapova UKR
14 Nolwenn Arc FRA
14 Michelle Hulliger SUI
16 Katherine Choong SUI
17 Vanda Michalkova SVK
18 Lynn Van Der Meer NED
19 Nina Arthaud FRA
20 Julia Fiser AUT
21 Christine Schranz AUT
22 Hannah Schubert AUT
23 Claudia Ghisolfi ITA
24 Anna Zaikina RUS
25 Noa Shiran ISR
26 Daria Veretenina RUS
27 Emma Stöver Wollebaek NOR
28 Jennifer Wood GBR
29 Ingrid Kindlihagen NOR
30 Natalia Kalucka POL
31 Michaela Smetanova CZE
32 Joanna Neame GBR
32 Olesya Prosekova RUS
34 Ilaria Scolaris ITA
35 Lisa-Marie Kvandahl NOR
35 Eliska Novotna CZE
35 Veronika Scheuerova CZE

Men
1 Adam Ondra CZE 45+
2 Alberto Ginés López ESP 38+
3 Sascha Lehmann SUI 34+
4 Martin Bergant SLO 34+
5 Nimrod Marcus ISR 28+
6 James Pope GBR 23+
7 Jakob Schubert AUT 23
8 Luka Potocar SLO 19
9 William Bosi GBR
10 Fedir Samoilov UKR
11 Martin Stranik CZE
12 Mathias Posch AUT
13 Dmitrii Fakiryanov RUS
14 Davide Marco Colombo ITA
15 Hamish Mcarthur GBR
16 Yannick Flohé GER
17 Sebastian Halenke GER
18 David Barrans GBR
19 Alistair Duval FRA
20 Nao Monchois FRA
21 Yuval Shemla ISR
22 Romain Desgranges FRA
23 Jan Hojer GER
24 Stepan Volf CZE
25 Alfons Dornauer AUT
26 Mark Brand NED
27 Sergei Luzhetskii RUS
28 Bittor Esparta Frade ESP
29 Sven Lempereur BEL
30 Francesco Vettorata ITA
31 Max Rudigier AUT
32 Thomas Joannes FRA
33 Mischa Radt NED
34 Leto Cavé NED
35 Matthias Schiestl AUT
35 Martin Tekles GER
37 Kieran Forrest GBR
38 Šimon Potůček CZE
39 Nikola Kramaric CRO
39 Matthaios Valsamidis GRE
41 Sébastien Berthe BEL
41 Dmitrii Popov RUS
41 Mykhayil Tkachuk UKR
44 Albert Ilsaas Suthurst NOR
45 John-Philip Noel-Baker GRE

SPEED
Women
1 Aleksandra Miroslaw POL 7.34
2 Mariia Krasavina RUS 8.04
3 Anouck Jaubert FRA 7.64
4 Aleksandra Kalucka POL 7.77
5 Elena Remizova RUS
6 Patrycja Chudziak POL
7 Capucine Viglione FRA
8 Iuliia Kaplina RUS
9 Anna Calanca ITA
10 Ekaterina Barashchuk RUS
11 Alexandra Elmer AUT
12 Anna Brozek POL
13 Natalia Kalucka POL
14 Tetiana Kolkotina UKR
15 Elizaveta Ivanova RUS
16 Aurelia Sarisson FRA
17 Kseniia Petrova RUS
18 Francesca Vasi ITA
19 Jennifer Wood GBR
20 Nika Potapova UKR
21 Vanda Michalkova SVK
22 Veronika Scheuerova CZE

Men
1 Vladislav Deulin RUS 5.9
2 Danyil Boldyrev UKR 6.88
3 Dmitrii Timofeev RUS 5.83
4 Jan Kriz CZE 6.23
5 Ludovico Fossali ITA
6 Kostiantyn Pavlenko UKR
7 Sergey Rukin RUS
8 Lev Rudatskiy RUS
9 Aleksandr Shilov RUS
10 Iaroslav Pashkov RUS
11 Almaz Nagaev RUS
12 Guillaume Moro FRA
13 Lukas Knapp AUT
14 Yaroslav Tkach UKR
15 Alessandro Cingari ITA
16 Marcin Dzienski POL
17 Alessandro Santoni ITA
18 Tobias Plangger AUT
19 Gian Luca Zodda ITA
20 Alessandro Boulos ITA
21 Leonardo Gontero ITA
22 Jan Hojer GER
23 Yannick Flohé GER
24 Yaroslav Gontaryk UKR
25 Alberto Ginés López ESP
26 Nimrod Marcus ISR
27 Stanislav Kokorin RUS
28 Sascha Lehmann SUI
29 Matthaios Valsamidis GRE
30 Bittor Esparta Frade ESP
31 William Bosi GBR
32 Fedir Samoilov UKR
32 Jakob Schubert AUT