Janja Garnbret, Adam Ondra crowned Lead World Champions 2019

Two days after convincingly winning the Bouldering World Championship, Slovenia’s Janja Ganrbret has doubled her takings with an extraordinary win of the Lead World Championship; no woman had ever won two disciplines in the same world championship before and in securing the historic double the 20-year-old has once again set a new gold standard.

Garnbret wanted to prove that her troublesome start to the Lead World Cup 2019 is nothing but a minor hiccough- currently she’s trailing somewhat surprisingly to young Chaehyun Seo - and she made her mark by dominating both the qualifiers and the semis. Last out in the finals, as the crowd went silent she dug in deep to climb a staggering 4 holds higher than second placed teammate Mia Krampl and to just 3 holds from the top. Young Ai Mori from Japan claimed bronze in beating even younger Chaehyun Seo and expert Akiyo Noguchi on countback after all fell off the same hold on the headwall, while Lead World Champion 2018 Jessica Pilz placed sixth, ahead of Vita Lukan who was probably still recovering from her remarkable semifinal performance a few hours earlier, and Julia Chanourdie who finished 8th.

In the men’s event big names such as Romain Desgranges, Adam Ondra more than made up for his disappointment on Tuesday, when he had failed to even score a zone in the Bouldering Final after having so evidently dominated the earlier rounds, by winning the Lead World Championship 2019. In doing so Ondra retained the title for the third time, after Paris 2016 and Gijon 2014 and matched only one other male athlete who has won three World Championships: legendary Frenchman François Legrand in 1991, 1993 and 1995.

Ondra, fifth out, beat Alexander Megos by just one hold; the German had led the Semis and despite some early mistakes managed to battle up to the headwall before his foot slipped just as he was going for Ondra’s highpoint. Jakob Schubert placed third and took his second medal in Japan after taking silver in the Bouldering World Championship on Tuesday. Fourth place went to Tomoa Narasaki; his Bouldering World Championship win two days ago and fourth place here proves he’s a force to be reckoned with for the overall Combined title. Sean McColl fell off the same hold and slipped into fifth on countback, ahead of Italy’s Stefano Ghisolfi who climbed easily before coming undone when trying to clip a quickdraw. Kai Harada and Hannes Puman battled hard on the burly first half of the route and placed 7th and 8th respectively.

1 Janja Garnbret SLO 43+
2 Mia Krampl SLO 39+
3 Ai Mori JPN 38+
4 Chaehyun Seo KOR 38+
5 Akiyo Noguchi JPN 38+
6 Jessica Pilz AUT 35+
7 Vita Lukan SLO 30+
8 Julia Chanourdie FRA 30+
9 Lucka Rakovec SLO
10 Anak Verhoeven BEL
11 Mei Kotake JPN
12 Tjasa Kalan SLO
13 Tina Johnsen Hafsaas NOR
14 Futaba Ito JPN
15 Brooke Raboutou USA
16 Ievgeniia Kazbekova UKR
17 Alejandra Contreras CHI
17 Shauna Coxsey GBR
19 Molly Thompson-Smith GBR
20 Laura Rogora ITA
21 Sandra Lettner AUT
22 Jain Kim KOR
23 Elnaz Rekabi IRI
24 YueTong Zhang CHN
25 Iva Vejmolova CZE
26 Miho Nonaka JPN
27 Christine Schranz AUT
28 Ashima Shiraishi USA
29 Petra Klingler SUI
30 Viktoriia Meshkova RUS
31 Anne-Sophie Koller SUI
32 Andrea Kümin SUI
33 Fanny Gibert FRA
34 Katharina Posch AUT
35 Nanako Kura JPN
36 Luiza Emeleva RUS
37 Lan Kim KOR
38 Alannah Yip CAN
39 Sol Sa KOR
40 Kyra Condie USA
41 Oceania Mackenzie AUS
42 Sofya Yokoyama SUI
43 Eliska Adamovska CZE
44 Hung Ying Lee TPE
44 Joanna Neame GBR
46 Mina Markovic SLO
47 Valentina Aguado ARG
48 Elena Krasovskaya RUS
48 Hsiu-Ju Lin TPE
48 Yael Taub ISR
48 Allison Vest CAN
52 Nina Arthaud FRA
53 Rebecca Frangos CAN
53 Natalia Grossman USA
55 Alex Johnson USA
56 Andrea Rojas ECU
57 Afra Hönig GER
57 Olesya Prosekova RUS
59 Bianca Magalhaes De Castro BRA
60 Anouck Jaubert FRA
61 Rong Jiang CHN
62 Iuliia Panteleeva RUS
63 Lucinda Ann Stirling AUS
64 Aleksandra Kalucka POL
65 Tiffany Melius AUS
66 YiLing Song CHN
67 Di Niu CHN
68 Margarita Agambayeva KAZ
69 Puntarika Tunyavanich THA
70 YuZhen Baima CHN
70 Sienna Kopf USA
72 Arantza Fernández Gutierrez MEX
72 Aleksandra Miroslaw POL
74 RACHELLE De Charmoy RSA
74 Natalia Kalucka POL
76 Thais Makino Shiraiwa BRA
77 Anna Brozek POL
78 Wai-ping Yu HKG
79 Tamara Ulzhabayeva KAZ
80 Patrycja Chudziak POL
81 Siddhi Shekhar Manerikar IND
82 Assel Marlenova KAZ
82 Roxy Perry AUS
84 Arantza Luna Velasco MEX
85 Jayati Gadamshetty IND
86 María Fernanda González Rámirez MEX
87 Valeria Macias Ferreira MEX
88 Prateeksha Arun IND
89 Pratthana Raksachat THA
90 Jennifer Marie De La Torre MEX
90 Dhanshri Lekurwala IND
92 Sarah Tetzlaff NZL

1 Adam Ondra CZE 34+
2 Alexander Megos GER 33+
3 Jakob Schubert AUT 33+
4 Tomoa Narasaki JPN 30
5 Sean Mccoll CAN 30
6 Stefano Ghisolfi ITA 29+
7 Kai Harada JPN 28+
8 Hannes Puman SWE 27+
9 Jakub Konecny CZE
10 Domen Skofic SLO
11 Tim Reuser NED
12 Meichi Narasaki JPN
13 Dmitrii Fakiryanov RUS
14 Kokoro Fujii JPN
15 Martin Stranik CZE
16 Rudolph Ruana USA
17 William Bosi GBR
17 Hanwool Kim KOR
19 Marcello Bombardi ITA
20 Martin Bergant SLO
21 Sean Bailey USA
22 Hidemasa Nishida JPN
23 Sascha Lehmann SUI
24 Jongwon Chon KOR
25 Romain Desgranges FRA
26 Vladislav Shevchenko RUS
27 Luka Potocar SLO
28 Jernej Kruder SLO
29 Keita Dohi JPN
30 Nathaniel Coleman USA
31 Alberto Ginés López ESP
32 Tom O'halloran AUS
33 Jan Hojer GER
34 Nicolas Collin BEL
35 Evgenii Zazulin RUS
36 Jabee Kim KOR
37 Mikel Asier Linacisoro Molina ESP
38 YuFei Pan CHN
39 Michael Piccolruaz ITA
40 Yannick Flohé GER
41 Manuel Cornu FRA
42 Anze Peharc SLO
43 Cheung-chi Shoji Chan HKG
44 Alex Khazanov ISR
45 William Ridal GBR
46 Yuval Shemla ISR
47 John Brosler USA
48 Nikolai Iarilovets RUS
49 Nimrod Marcus ISR
50 Mickael Mawem FRA
51 Campbell Harrison AUS
52 Rishat Khaibullin KAZ
53 Loïc Timmermans BEL
54 Dmitrii Popov RUS
55 Zach Galla USA
56 Cesar Grosso BRA
57 Chi-fung Au HKG
58 Tomas Plevko SVK
59 Davoud Rekabi IRI
60 Bassa Mawem FRA
61 Danny Valencia ECU
62 Ram Levin ISR
63 Carlos Granja ECU
63 Aleksandr Shikov RUS
65 Singh Adarsh IND
66 Dohyun Lee KOR
67 Jason Holowach CAN
68 Or Miniely ISR
69 Joe Goodacre USA
70 Ludovico Fossali ITA
71 Chingkheinganba Maibam IND
72 George Sanders NZL
73 Sam Lavender AUS
74 Winai Ruangrit THA
75 Damien Blokker RSA
76 Yarden Pilpel ISR
77 Chia Hsiang Lin TPE
78 Ben Abel AUS
78 Lucas Uchida CAN
80 Santiago Garcia ARG
81 Emmanuel Estrada De Artola MEX
81 Jan Kriz CZE
83 Thattana Raksachat THA
84 Felipe Ho Foganholo BRA
85 Sahil Khan IND
86 Gaurav Kumar IND
87 Hritik Marne IND
88 Ka-chun Yau HKG
89 Marcin Dzienski POL
89 Thomas Waldin NZL
91 Long Cao CHN
92 Ying-Chieh Wen TPE
93 Emilio Valdez Garduño MEX
94 Calrin Curtis RSA
95 QiXin Zhong CHN
96 Sirapob Jirajaturapak THA
96 Javier Iván Molina Franco MEX
98 Akmal Jumaniyazov UZB
99 Danyil Boldyrev UKR