Flawless perfection: Janja Garnbret and YiLing Song win in Chongqing in China

The first of the two Chinese stages of the 2019 Bouldering World Cup took place last weekend in in Chongqing which, in addition to the nigh unbearable heat, was marked by the flawless perfection of unstoppable Janja Garnbret who during the two competition days managed to send all the problems the route setters had conceived and created.

After having dominated the first two rounds the Slovenian also sent the four final blocs, in 8 attempts, while Akiyo Noguchi needed 12 attempts to finish second for the third time this season. Also up on the bouldering podium, for the first time in her career, was Austria’s Jessica Pilz, the reigning Lead World Champion and evidently also a force to be reckoned with without a rope. Petra Klinger and Futaba Ito finished fourth and fifth respectively, while Katja Kadic finished sixth after having impressed all in the semis, sending all 4 problems just like her teammate Garnbret. It’s worth noting that two of the world’s strongest, Shauna Coxsey and Miho Nonaka, had chosen not to compete in Chongqing.

Another notable absence, due to illness though, was that of Adam Ondra, and after the tough Semis had dashed the hopes of big names such as Jernej Kruder and Jakob Schubert, Manuel Cornu managed to clinch victory for the first time in his career. The Frenchman beat Tomoa Narasaki who, due to just one attempt more needed to reach a zone (he made a false start on boulder #3) missed out on the gold medal that despite a fever could easily have been his. Anze Peharc navigated his way through the enormous volumes to stand on the podium for the first time in his career, too, thanks to 3 convincing tops, ahead of Sascha Lehmann, Aleksey Rubtsov and Kokoro Fujii.

The second stage of the Speed ​​World Cup was won on Friday evening by 18-year-old YiLing Song who twice managed to set a new world record, stopping the clock after 7.101 seconds and beating Aleksandra Rudzinska in the final. The men's competition was won by Alfian Muhammad, while Kostiantyn Pavlenko settled for second.

RESULTS FEMALE BOULDER CHONGQUING 2019
1 Janja Garnbret SLO 4T4z86
2 Akiyo Noguchi JPN 4T4z129
3 Jessica Pilz AUT 3T4z811
4 Petra Klingler SUI 1T3z28
5 Futaba Ito JPN 1T2z14
6 Katja Kadic SLO 0T4z010
7 Fanny Gibert FRA
8 Alannah Yip CAN
9 Ashima Shiraishi USA
10 Chloe Caulier BEL
11 YueTong Zhang CHN
12 Lucka Rakovec SLO
13 Elnaz Rekabi IRI
14 Julia Chanourdie FRA
15 Vita Lukan SLO
16 Mao Nakamura JPN
17 Alex Johnson USA
17 Rong Jiang CHN
19 Margo Hayes USA
20 Jain Kim KOR
21 Valentina Aguado ARG
21 Ai Mori JPN
23 Mia Krampl SLO
23 Jennifer Wood GBR
25 Alma Bestvater GER
25 Ievgeniia Kazbekova UKR
27 Sandra Lettner AUT
27 Joanna Neame GBR
29 Charlotte Andre FRA
29 Hung Ying Lee TPE
31 Kyra Condie USA
31 Anna Tsyganova RUS
33 Afra Hönig GER
33 Elena Krasovskaya RUS
35 Natsumi Hirano JPN
35 Sol Sa KOR
37 Sienna Kopf USA
37 Naile Meignan FRA
39 Anouck Jaubert FRA
39 Emily Phillips GBR
41 Anne-Sophie Koller SUI
41 Viktoriia Meshkova RUS
43 Paige Boklaschuk CAN
43 Nanako Kura JPN
45 Beatrix Evans CAN
45 Oceania Mackenzie AUS
47 Laura Rogora ITA
47 Laura Stöckler AUT
49 Tara Hayes GBR
49 Julia Pinggera AUT
51 Hannah Meul GER
51 Iuliia Panteleeva RUS
53 Salsabila Salsabila INA
53 Margaryta Zakharova UKR
55 Manon Hily FRA
55 LINDA Sjödin SWE
57 Hsiu-Ju Lin TPE
57 Puntarika Tunyavanich THA
59 Virgita Nadya Putri INA
59 Di Niu CHN
61 Lucinda Ann Stirling AUS
61 Molly Thompson-Smith GBR
63 Heloïse Doumont BEL
63 Allison Vest CAN
65 Anna Davey AUS
65 Wai-ping Yu HKG
67 Tiffany Melius AUS
67 YiLing Song CHN
69 Madison Fischer CAN
69 Aliaksandra Misiukevich BLR
71 Valiantsina Chamiakina BLR
71 Heeyeon Park KOR
73 Iqamah Nurul INA
73 Vera Zijlstra NED
75 Andrea Rojas ECU
75 Sarah Tetzlaff NZL
77 Aleksandra Kalucka POL
77 Natalia Kalucka POL
77 Aleksandra Rudzinska POL
77 Aries Susanti Rahayu INA
77 Choirul Umi Cahyaning Ayub INA
82 YuZhen Baima CHN
82 Ka-yan Wong HKG
84 Anna Brozek POL
84 Patrycja Chudziak POL

RESULTS MALE BOULDER CHONGQUING 2019
1 Manuel Cornu FRA 3T4z55
2 Tomoa Narasaki JPN 3T4z56
3 Anze Peharc SLO 3T4z1010
4 Sascha Lehmann SUI 2T4z310
5 Aleksey Rubtsov RUS 2T4z411
6 Kokoro Fujii JPN 2T4z79
7 Rei Sugimoto JPN
8 Gregor Vezonik SLO
9 Mickael Mawem FRA
10 Yannick Flohé GER
11 Kai Harada JPN
12 Jan Hojer GER
13 Taisei Ishimatsu JPN
14 Sean Mccoll CAN
15 Jongwon Chon KOR
16 Alex Khazanov ISR
17 Nathaniel Coleman USA
18 Jakob Schubert AUT
19 David Barrans GBR
20 Ryuichi Murai JPN
21 YuFei Pan CHN
21 Tomoaki Takata JPN
23 Alexander Megos GER
23 Meichi Narasaki JPN
25 William Bosi GBR
25 Nathan Phillips GBR
27 Sean Bailey USA
27 Sergei Skorodumov RUS
29 Yoshiyuki Ogata JPN
29 Vadim Timonov RUS
31 Keita Dohi JPN
31 Zach Galla USA
31 Alban Levier FRA
34 Jernej Kruder SLO
35 Max Kleesattel GER
35 Sergii Topishko UKR
37 Cheung-chi Shoji Chan HKG
37 Michael Piccolruaz ITA
39 Ram Levin ISR
39 Simon Lorenzi BEL
41 James Pope GBR
41 Lucas Uchida CAN
43 Georg Parma AUT
43 Rudolph Ruana USA
45 Marcello Bombardi ITA
45 Nicolas Collin BEL
47 Nikolai Iarilovets RUS
47 William Ridal GBR
49 Stefano Ghisolfi ITA
49 Jason Holowach CAN
49 Fedir Samoilov UKR
52 Hannes Puman SWE
53 Leo Avezou FRA
53 Dmitrii Fakiryanov RUS
55 Nimrod Marcus ISR
55 Nathan Smith CAN
57 Alfons Dornauer AUT
57 Florian Klingler AUT
59 Hanwool Kim KOR
59 Chia Hsiang Lin TPE
61 Kim Marschner GER
61 Francesco Vettorata ITA
63 Nils Favre SUI
63 Fatchur Roji INA
65 Cheuk-hei Ho HKG
65 Ka-chun Yau HKG
67 Carlos Granja ECU
67 Hei-yeung Lam HKG
69 Ned Middlehurst AUS
69 Zach Richardson CAN
71 Bassa Mawem FRA
71 RIFALDI Ridjayaode INA
73 Chi-fung Au HKG
73 Sam Lavender AUS
75 Joshua Damasco AUS
75 Rolf Fredrik Serlachius SWE
77 Muhammad Taqiuddin Bin Mohd Zulkifli MAS
77 Aspar Jaelolo INA
79 Danny Valencia ECU
79 QiXin Zhong CHN
81 Chase Gatland NZL
81 Hritik Marne IND
83 John Brosler USA
83 Sirapob Jirajaturapak THA
83 Sergei Luzhetskii RUS
86 Campbell Harrison AUS
87 Kostiantyn Pavlenko UKR
87 Lasa Temi INA
87 Loïc Timmermans BEL
90 Yuval Shemla ISR
91 Mohd Izzat Mohd Shokor MAS
91 Alfian Muhammad INA
93 Ludovico Fossali ITA
93 Wan Tong Lok MAC
95 Jan Kriz CZE
95 Kristoffer Lindbäck SWE
95 George Sanders NZL
95 Thomas Waldin NZL
99 Aliaksandr Ivanou BLR
100 Ching Huei Chang TPE
101 Marcin Dzienski POL

RESULTS FEMALE SPEED CHONGQUING 2019
1 YiLing Song CHN
2 Aleksandra Rudzinska POL
3 Iuliia Kaplina RUS
4 Anouck Jaubert FRA
5 Aries Susanti Rahayu INA
6 Elena Timofeeva RUS
7 Natalia Kalucka POL
8 Anna Tsyganova RUS
9 Elizaveta Ivanova RUS
10 Di Niu CHN
11 Aurelia Sarisson FRA
12 Iqamah Nurul INA
13 PeiYang Tian CHN
14 Aleksandra Kalucka POL
15 MingWei Ni CHN
16 Patrycja Chudziak POL
17 HaiMei Qiu CHN
18 Victoire Andrier FRA
19 Anna Brozek POL
20 Andrea Rojas ECU
21 CuiLian He CHN
22 Tetiana Kolkotina UKR
23 Ekaterina Barashchuk RUS
24 Rong Jiang CHN
25 Elena Krasovskaya RUS
26 Sol Sa KOR
27 Janja Garnbret SLO
28 Kyra Condie USA
29 Oceania Mackenzie AUS
30 Akiyo Noguchi JPN
31 Hung Ying Lee TPE
32 Sienna Kopf USA
33 Petra Klingler SUI
34 Alma Bestvater GER
35 Iuliia Panteleeva RUS
36 Julia Chanourdie FRA
37 Laura Stöckler AUT
38 Futaba Ito JPN
39 Chloe Caulier BEL
40 Valentina Aguado ARG
41 YueTong Zhang CHN
42 Manon Hily FRA
43 Viktoriia Meshkova RUS
44 Lucka Rakovec SLO
45 Fanny Gibert FRA
46 Jain Kim KOR
47 Elena Remizova RUS
48 Emily Phillips GBR
49 Katja Kadic SLO
50 Mao Nakamura JPN
51 Ievgeniia Kazbekova UKR
52 Sandra Lettner AUT
53 Alannah Yip CAN
54 YuZhen Baima CHN
55 Virgita Nadya Putri INA
56 Laura Rogora ITA
57 Margo Hayes USA
58 Tiffany Melius AUS
59 Mia Krampl SLO
60 Anne-Sophie Koller SUI
61 Ashima Shiraishi USA
62 Heloïse Doumont BEL
63 Jessica Pilz AUT
64 Wai-ping Yu HKG
65 Vera Zijlstra NED
66 Hsiu-Ju Lin TPE
67 Ai Mori JPN
68 Puntarika Tunyavanich THA
69 Salsabila Salsabila INA
70 Sarah Tetzlaff NZL
71 Choirul Umi Cahyaning Ayub INA
72 Natsumi Hirano JPN
73 Vita Lukan SLO
74 Ka-yan Wong HKG

RESULTS MALE SPEED CHONGQUING 2019
1 Alfian Muhammad INA
2 Kostiantyn Pavlenko UKR
3 Sergey Rukin RUS
4 QiXin Zhong CHN
5 Reza Alipourshena. IRI
6 Nikolai Iarilovets RUS
7 ZhiYong Ou CHN
8 Fatchur Roji INA
9 Marcin Dzienski POL
10 JinBao Long CHN
11 Aspar Jaelolo INA
12 Aleksandr Shilov RUS
13 ZhiXing Chen CHN
14 Vladislav Deulin RUS
15 Bassa Mawem FRA
16 Dmitrii Timofeev RUS
17 Sergei Luzhetskii RUS
18 Jan Kriz CZE
19 Stanislav Kokorin RUS
20 Gian Luca Zodda ITA
21 Carlos Granja ECU
22 Long Cao CHN
23 Cheung-chi Shoji Chan HKG
24 Kokoro Fujii JPN
25 Shuo Xu CHN
26 Manuel Cornu FRA
27 Jan Hojer GER
28 John Brosler USA
29 Liang Zhang CHN
30 Meichi Narasaki JPN
31 Danny Valencia ECU
32 YuFei Pan CHN
33 Guillaume Moro FRA
34 William Bosi GBR
35 Michael Piccolruaz ITA
36 Hanwool Kim KOR
37 Sean Mccoll CAN
38 Kai Harada JPN
39 Nathaniel Coleman USA
40 Jakob Schubert AUT
41 Chi-fung Au HKG
42 Rei Sugimoto JPN
43 Zach Galla USA
44 Jongwon Chon KOR
45 Arsenii Bogomolov RUS
46 Rudolph Ruana USA
47 Sascha Lehmann SUI
48 William Ridal GBR
49 Lasa Temi INA
50 RIFALDI Ridjaya Ode INA
51 Georg Parma AUT
52 Leo Avezou FRA
53 Simon Lorenzi BEL
54 Nicolas Collin BEL
55 Ka-chun Yau HKG
56 Jernej Kruder SLO
57 Hei-yeung Lam HKG
58 Marcello Bombardi ITA
59 Sean Bailey USA
60 Ram Levin ISR
61 Sirapob Jirajaturapak THA
62 Loïc Timmermans BEL
63 Anze Peharc SLO
64 ZhaXi Bianba CHN
65 Francesco Vettorata ITA
66 Sergii Topishko UKR
67 Ned Middlehurst AUS
68 Aleksey Rubtsov RUS
69 Muhammad Taqiuddin Bin Mohd Zulkifli MAS
70 Mohd Izzat Mohd Shokor MAS
71 Yuval Shemla ISR
72 Chia Hsiang Lin TPE
73 Nimrod Marcus ISR
74 George Sanders NZL
75 Sam Lavender AUS
76 Mickael Mawem FRA
77 Alex Khazanov ISR
78 Alban Levier FRA
79 Fedir Samoilov UKR
80 Stefano Ghisolfi ITA
81 Hritik Marne IND
82 Thomas Waldin NZL
83 Chase Gatland NZL
84 Ludovico Fossali ITA
84 Hannes Puman SWE