Silvio Reffo climbs Cornalba 9a+ with Goldrake

Banking on his previous ten 9a sports climbs, last Sunday Silvio Reffo raised the bar and sent his first 9a+. The climber and physiotherapist from Vicenza did so on a climb that in the last few months has transformed into a benchmark route for Italian climbers in particular, namely Goldrake on the splendid east face of Cornalba, high up in Val Serina close to Bergamo. After the first free ascent at the hands of Adam Ondra in 2010 and the first repeat by Gabriele Moroni in 2014, the route has been repeated three times this spring: Stefano Carnati got the ball rolling in March, Stefano Ghisolfi followed in April, and now it was Reffo who clipped the anchor. Incidentally, in 2014 Reffo made the first ascent of The ring of life at his home crag Covolo, prudently grading it 9a/a+. The route is still unrepeated and many feel it may far harder than the slash grade suggests.

GOLDRAKE by Silvio Reffo

After Gabriele Moroni repeat Goldrake I often considered trying the line, but the right opportunity never arose, nor did I find the right motivations. Finally last Easter I managed to lay my hands on this superb Cornalba climb, on the same days as Stefano Ghisolfi was trying it. Right from the outset we both made good progress and so we decided to try it a bit more. After a few days I easily dealt with the lower section, but kept falling off the last hard moves before getting immediately back onto the rock and continuing on to the chain without particular difficulties.

It was incredibly frustrating, feeling so close to the send but nevertheless falling off the same move so often. Due to a trip to Spain and various other commitments I wasn’t able to return to the crag until two days ago. I felt rested, calm and on the first attempt - without difficulties - I found myself clipping the chain of this superb climb.


SILVIO REFFO'S 9A's AND HARDER
13/06/2012 L'attimo, Covolo, first ascent
29/12/2012 Estado critico, Siurana
23/01/2013 Era vella, Margalef
18/03/2014 The ring of life 9a/a+, Covolo, first ascent
17/04/2014 Biologico, Rovereto
25/10/2014 Underground, Massone
09/04/2015 Back road, Rovereto
08/09/2015 Super circolo abusivo, Paline Val Camonica
28/11/2015 Under Vibes, Massone
17/01/2016 Sanjski par extension, Misja Pec
15/05/2016 Goldrake, Cornalba

20/01/2016 - Silvio Reffo, the 9a climbing physiotherapist
Interview with Italian rock climber Silvio Reffo who at Misja Pec in Slovenia sent his 10th 9a sports climb.

TOPO: climbing at Cornalba