Productive bouldering season for Andrea Pavan
Andrea Pavan has had a good bouldering season in Northern Italy, with a series of hard repeats and first ascents close to Val di Mello, Valmasino.
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Andrea Pavan in action.
Planetmountain.com
The Ragni di Lecco climber Andrea Pavan has had a good winter and spring boudlering session in Northern Italy, with highlights such as the first ascents of Gica FB8b and Piri super plus Fb8a at Ponte del Baffo and L'uomo di Neandertal Fb8a+ at Selvapiana.
The author of the Val di Mello bouldering guidebook also sent a series of tespieces at Switzerland's Magic Wood, including One summer in paradise 8b, Pura Vida 8a+, Jack’s broken heart 8a+ and Bodycount 8a.
Selvapiana is located above Morbegno in northern Italy and, given it's relatively low height, is ideal in winter. The rock is the same rough grantie as that in nearby Valmasino. The area is panoramic and tranquil and at present there are circa 90 problems from Fb5 to Fb8a+.
Ponte del Baffo is located just beyond the start to Valmasino along the river and is ideal for spring and autumn. The rock isn't the typical rough grantie but a hard gneiss with plenty of small crimps. The bouldering tends to be powerful through athletic overhangs. At present there are circa 40 problems from Fb5 to Fb8b, with most above Fb7a. There is still plenty of scope for development.
Both Selvapiana and Ponte del Baffo are described in the guidebook "Melloboulder" written by Andrea Pavan and published by Versante Sud.
Latest sends Andrea Pavan
1st ascents:
Gica 8b Ponte del Baffo (Sondrio, Italy)
L’uomo di Neandertal 8a+ Selvapiana (Sondrio, Italy)
Piri super plus 8a Ponte del Baffo (Sondrio, Italy)
Repeats:
One summer in paradise 8b Magic Wood (Switzerland)
Pura Vida 8a+ Magic Wood (Switzerland)
Jack’s broken heart 8a+ Magic Wood (Switzerland)
Bodycount 8a Magic Wood (Switzerland)
La M 8a/8a+ Val di Mello (Sondrio, Italy)
Miss anal 8a Val di Mello (Sondrio, Italy)
The author of the Val di Mello bouldering guidebook also sent a series of tespieces at Switzerland's Magic Wood, including One summer in paradise 8b, Pura Vida 8a+, Jack’s broken heart 8a+ and Bodycount 8a.
Selvapiana is located above Morbegno in northern Italy and, given it's relatively low height, is ideal in winter. The rock is the same rough grantie as that in nearby Valmasino. The area is panoramic and tranquil and at present there are circa 90 problems from Fb5 to Fb8a+.
Ponte del Baffo is located just beyond the start to Valmasino along the river and is ideal for spring and autumn. The rock isn't the typical rough grantie but a hard gneiss with plenty of small crimps. The bouldering tends to be powerful through athletic overhangs. At present there are circa 40 problems from Fb5 to Fb8b, with most above Fb7a. There is still plenty of scope for development.
Both Selvapiana and Ponte del Baffo are described in the guidebook "Melloboulder" written by Andrea Pavan and published by Versante Sud.
Latest sends Andrea Pavan
1st ascents:
Gica 8b Ponte del Baffo (Sondrio, Italy)
L’uomo di Neandertal 8a+ Selvapiana (Sondrio, Italy)
Piri super plus 8a Ponte del Baffo (Sondrio, Italy)
Repeats:
One summer in paradise 8b Magic Wood (Switzerland)
Pura Vida 8a+ Magic Wood (Switzerland)
Jack’s broken heart 8a+ Magic Wood (Switzerland)
Bodycount 8a Magic Wood (Switzerland)
La M 8a/8a+ Val di Mello (Sondrio, Italy)
Miss anal 8a Val di Mello (Sondrio, Italy)
Note:
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