Legrand sends Necessary Evil 8c+

A year after his American tour with Yuji Hirayama, the Frenchman François Legrand is back in the States and on top form, sending Necessary Evil 5.14c/ 8c+ at Virgin River Gorge shortly after his arrival

Nicola Noè

March 2002

Traduci in

A year after his American tour with Yuji Hirayama, the Frenchman François Legrand is back in the States and on top form, sending Necessary Evil 5.14c/ 8c+ at Virgin River Gorge (Nevada) shortly after his arrival.

Last year’s whirlwind USA trip didn’t give him ample time to try Chris Sharma’s masterpiece, so instead he attempted the “light” version, Route of All Evil (hard 5.14a/8b+), that avoids the fingery boulder start. Now though Legrand has sent the full route, and this is what he had to say about the route:

François and Necessary Evil
“It’s slightly overhanging and takes a line up 35m of beautifully compact yellowish orange limestone. The rock is smooth and it’s a shame that some of the holds are polished already!

The climbing is similar to that found in Cimai (sector “En un combat douteux”) But the edges are less positive! It tests both your finger strength and endurance, since the hard section through the overhang finishes after 20m. Then there’s a relatively good rest which renders the 7c finishing slab not too precarious.

Between the first and the second bolt there’s a violent, fingery boulder crux: V11/8a Font boulder. This is followed by 15m endurance with no easy moves that could constitute a rest, and two hard moves to reach the rest proper: many people fall at this point already!

Alé François!

by Nicola Noé