Jolly Lamberti 8c send at Spiaggia Della Molpa, Palinuro

At New Year, aged 52, I managed to climb an 8c sports route again. A year beforehand I ruptured the tendon of my strongest finger. This recovery demonstrates how mental and emotional aspect, technique, coordination and in particular a “never give up” attitude are predominant compared to the purely physical aspect of climbing.

The route is called Egger and is located above the beautiful beach spiaggia della Molpa in Palinuro. It was bolted by Luca Passini, a member of the Ragni di Lecco, and first ascended by Stefano Ghisolfi in 2015. It is 35 meters high, and the last 15 meters climb past razor-sharp tiny edges, without any rests, to finish with a spectacular dyno.

by Alessandro Jolly Lamberti

TOPO: Capo Palinuro - Spiaggia Della Molpa

Alessandro Jolly Lamberti selected climbs
1974 Begins climbing in the mountains with his father
1983 Becomes Italian Alpine Club climbing instructor at Rome
1985 Tempi Moderni, Marmolada. Estasi & Olimpo, first repeat in Marmolada. Cavalcare la tigre, Gran Sasso, first repeat.
1986 Il ricordo del tempo, Sperlonga. First 8a in Central Italy, one of the first 8a's in Italy.
1987 Choucas, 8a+, Buoux, France. Italian Speed Champion at Torino palavela
1988 La Rose et le Vampires, 8b, Buoux. Places second at the Italian Championship on rock, at Bardonecchia.
1989 Becomes climbing instructor. A member of the Italian sport climbing team, he competes in World Cup events and the Arco Rock Master. Together with Antonella Stran he runs the first indoor climbing wall in Rome.
1990 La rage de vivre, hitoric 55m 8b+at Buoux
1992 Via Framm, first winter repeat, Marmolada, with Piero Dal Prà
1994 First 8c with the first ascent of Il Corvo, the first of this grade in Central Italy. Mont Blanc Red Pillar of Brouillard, via Gabarrou-Long. Becomes mountain guide
1998 Nada es para siempre, 8c, Grotti, First ascent, still unrepeated. Creates the climbing gym "Rock and Walls", together with Marco Forcatura and Alfredo Smargiassi
1999 Agincourt and Le Minimum 8c at Buoux. First ascent of Input 8c at Grotti.
2001 Hugh 9a, France, first repeat. Probably the first 9a climbed by an Italian
2002 Zandalee, 8c, Grotti, first ascent. First repeat Die Hard e Kether, both 8c at Ferentillo. Repeats La Cronique 8c at Ceuse.
2004 Bain de sang, 9a, Switzerland
2005 Er Cid, 8c, Grotti, first ascent.
2006 Yosemite,USA, The Nose, with Franco Loaldi
2007 Publishes the book 'Metodi di allenamento fisico e mentale per l’arrampicata sportiva'
2008 4 repeats of 8b/c in USA
2009 First ascent of La Morte at Pietrasecca. 8c
2010 Climbs 10 routes between 8b and 8b+
2011 First repeat of Debolezza e disonore 8c+ at Grotti.