Janja Garnbret makes double send of Bügeleisen Sit 8C in Maltatal, Austria
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Roman Krajnik
Two years after making the first female ascent of Bügeleisen stand, the iconic 8B+ block freed in 2001 by Klem Loskot up in Austria's Maltatal, earlier today Janja Garnbret completed the next logical step and repeated the sit start. Established by Nalle Hukkataival in 2014, the sit start adds a further 3 heinous moves that nudge the grade up to 8C.
In repeating what has been defined as "one of the BEST hard boulders in the world" Garnbret follows in the footsteps of Jakob Schubert (2015), Stefan Scarperi (2020), Nicolai Užnik (2020) and Niccolò Ceria (2022). Not only has she made the first female ascent, the 25-year-old has now also taken her own climbing to new heights - this is her hardest boulder to date after the 8B+ Bügeleisen in 2014 and New Base Line at Magic Wood in Switzerland last year.
Although no one in their right mind would for a second have doubted Garnbret's ability to pull this one off, what is startling nonetheless is the speed and style of her ascent. After only a short dabble two years ago, today she needed less than half an hour to get the moves dialed and top the boulder. Not content with the quality of the send video, she then climbed it a second time for good measure. Inconceivable!
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