Dryland mixed climbing above Innsbruck

Over the last two years Albert Leichtfried, one of Austria's leading mixed climbers, has almost single handedly developed the mixed-crag Dryland. The result is one of the hardest coldspots in Europe, with 10 routes weighing in from M5 to M13- and plenty of potential for new routes.

Located high above Innsbruck, Leichtfried describes the small crag as being special because of "the high amount of ice on every route in good winters. Another nice feature is the hole in the wall, which you easily can walk through and have a warm rest in the sun."

Sounds good to us. Check out the routes, description and topo below. Enjoy.


Drylands
Orientation: S, SE, E – shade nearly all day because of a rock wall in front
Altitude: 1300m
Grades: M5-M13
No. of routes: 10 routes, with plenty of potential for more
Best time: January- March
Gear: 12 quickdraws, mixed gear
Keep in mind: The approach is very exposed to avalanches after big snowfalls
Map: AV-Nr. 5/1

How to get there:
Exit Innsbruck West. Follow the signs to Alpenzoo / Hungerburg, when you reach Hungerburg (cable car up to Seegrube) follow the signs to "Gasthof Gramartboden". Park at this restaurant "Gasthof Gramartboden".

Approach:
Follow the path heading upwards into the forest. At the first crossing after 150m (sign to Höttinger Alm) go right and from here continue straight upwards. After an hour you reach a rock climbing crag. Dryland is located on the opposite side of this gully(60-90min).

Icefall (l to r) F.A. Grade Comp Grade Reloaded Comments Tension 01/04 M11- M12+ Good rests with Spur in roofs, without spurs the second roof becomes significantly harder Open end 11/06 - M11 Dynamic moves and endurance Häppy 01/04 M9- M9 Rests before each move with spurs, good rests without spurs Unleashed 12/05 M10 M11- Hard crux & endurance, significantly harder without spurs Fontok 01/04 M10- M10 Hard finishing crux with or without spurs, with spur good rests Reise ins Niemands-land 01/04 M7+ M7+ Flat terrain, no advantage with spurs Kaminkehrer 12/04 M5 M5 Flat terrain, no advantage with spurs Check the ripper 12/04 M7 M7 Flat terrain, no advantage with spurs Schall-dämpfer 02/05 M11+ M12 Hard crux & endurance, with or without spurs extremely hard crux Game Over 01/05 M 12- M 13- Good rests with Spur, slightly harder with Spur