Climbing at Malga Ciapela

Malga Ciapéla is a small crag formed by two huge boulders that tumbled off the SE Face of the Marmolada, consequently the rock is that same pocketed limestone holes for which the South Face of the Queen of the Dolomites is famous. Seeing that the crag is slightly overhanging, it's an excellent alternative on rainy days.

The best time of year runs from May to September; since the climbs face east, best conditions can be found in in the afternoon. The climbing tends to be highly technical.

The routes were bolted by the club La Rivolta and by Gianni Del Din, in some cases a significant dose of sika has been added to the routes, but this doesn't prove bothersome and the moves are never straightforward and always original.

This is one of the few crags that, within the space of just a few meters, offers a wide variety of routes of all grades. One of the most famous routes is La soluzione finale, climbed years ago by talented Marco Ronchi who, on this partially chipped route, demonstrated all his talent.

It's hard to find routes that are boring at Malga Ciapela and that's why choosing a selection of the best is no mean task. Even if there are not more than 30 routes, I've chosen not to publish them all as a sign of respect to those who with great effort and at their own expense published the guidebook that includes the full list of routes.

Mauro Dell'Antonia selection of routes:
L'ultim bal den fioc di nef? 7a
Luna rossa 6a
Barba luca 6b+
Lunga vita al presidente 7b
Ultimo zar 7a
E' un mondo difficile 7c+
La soluzione finale 8a+
Palpitazione tenue 7c
Sorvegliare e punire 8b+

Guidebook: numerous guidebooks about the crags in the Agordina and Vald di Massa area can be purchased in most shops in the area.

Access: from Agordo take the SS 203 towards Alleghe, follow signs for Marmolada and drive through Caprile and Sottoguda until you reach 'Malga Ciapéla and the cable car. Continue upwards for another 1 km towards the Fedaia Pass to the ski-lift (on the left) located in front of Hotel Roy; park here. Continue on foot across the meadows next to the ski lift to catch sight of the boulders. Descend slightly, walk across the bridge, then continue up through the woods diagonally left, to reach the crag in circa 15 minutes. From Val di Fassa drive over the Fedaia pass and on down to Malga Ciapéla and Hotel Roy.

by Mauro Dell'Antonia