Cédric Lachat frees Fantasia to climb his first 9b

When - like today - Cédric Lachat isn't exploring cave networks deep below the earth's surface, the 38-year-old climber enjoys pushing his limits on the toughest rock faces imaginable.

Renowned as one of the world's top all-round climbers, after ending his competition career the 2010 European Bouldering Champion concentrated his efforts on repeating many of the continent's hardest multi-pitches and redpointing sport climbs up to 9a+. He set the 9a+ ball rolling in 2011 with his repeat of Papichulo at Oliana, and then confirmed the grade with a further 6 climbs of this grade. Now he has taken things one stage further still with his first ascent of Fantasia in France's Vercors.

The route in question was bolted by Romain Gendey and is an extension to an existing 8b+: after a knee-bar rest a further 26 moves including the 7B+ boulder crux lead to the anchor. Lachat maxed out on the last 3 moves on numerous occasions, but kept his act together and made the send last week.

Speaking to Fanatic Climbing, he explained "For me, it’s without doubt the hardest route I’ve climbed, so I suggest 9b, however I wonder if it’s not easier for taller climbers because some movements seem hard to me due to the span required. In any case, for the climbers of my size (Cédric is 1.72m tall), it’s ultra intense and a real challenge!"

Info:FB Cedric Lachat, Karpos, Petzl, SCARPA

CEDRIC LACHAT 9A+ - 9B
2011 - Papichulo Oliana, Spain
2013 - Chaxi Oliana, Spain
2018 - La cène du lézard Jansegg, Switzerland
2019 - Sweet neuf Pierrot Beach, France
2019 - La Rambla Siurana, Spain
2020 - Pachamama, Oliana, Spain
2020 - Super Crackinette, Saint-Léger-du-Ventoux, France
2023 - Fantasia, Vercors, France, first ascent