Buster Martin repeats Furia de Jabali (9a+) at Siurana

Britain's Buster Martin has celebrated his return to fighting form with a repeat of the short and intense Furia de Jabali at Siurana in Spain. Bolted by Beto Rocasolano and freed by Will Bosi in March 2021, the route was originally given 9b but after repeats by Alexander Megos, Jakob Schubert and Adam Ondra was downgraded to 9a+.

Martin tried the line briefly last year but in his own words "couldn’t really pull myself off the rope and onto the micro front 3 crimps." Although he had been climbing on rock rarely over the last 10 months, he never stopped training completely, using a mix of fingerboarding and weights to stay in shape. The merits of this "steady trickle of consistency" were immediately obvious when he eventually pulled back on to Furia this winter; psyched by how much stronger his fingers felt,  a mere 6 further sessions were needed for the redpoint. 

Furia is Martin's second 9a+, after First Ley at Margalef in 2019.

 

 

 

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