Buster Martin climbs First Ley 9a+ at Margalef in Spain
After a concerted effort 23-year-old Buster Martin has managed to repeat First Ley, the 9a+ at Margalef in Spain which shares the same start as Chris Sharma’s 2011 9b First Round, First Minute before breaking off left to avoid the bouldery crux finish.
Martin first attempted the route in January this year and made a couple of trips to Margalef battling against the route’s difficulties, the heat and humidity before making his powerful ascent two days ago after about 20 days on the route. "I fell off the last move about 10 times" Martin told planetmountain.com "but in the end I was rewarded for the patience, had some perfect conditions, and the magic happened."
In the past Martin has onsighted up to 8b and he forms part of the new generation of young British sport climbers making a name for themselves for hard redpoints. Aged 16 he became the youngest Brit to climb 8c (Bat Route at Malham) after sending 8b at 15 and 8a at 14. With his ascent of classic Rainshadow at Malham Cove in 2018 he climbed his first and so far only 9a, while his recent success makes him only the second Brit to climb a confirmed 9a+ (John Gaskins' 2004 Violent New Breed at Giggleswick is unrepeated and disputed by some) more than a decade after Steve McClure added the extensions to Overnite Sensation at Malham and Northern Exposure at Kilnsey.
Martin's ascent is documented below. And, yes, it's normal speed, not fast forward...
Links: La Sportiva, Petzl