Nicholas Hobley & Dino Sturmann
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Siurana, Spain
Barbara Raudner
Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
5a - 9b
Height
60m
Routes number
200
Rock type
Limestone
Orientation
S
Rope
60m rope


Hands up who has never heard of Siurana? For almost all climbers Siurana represents much more than just a small village lost in time perched on a cliff's edge in the Tarragona mountains. It embodies a true vertical eldorado, a series of steep yellow and grey limestone walls, slabs and overhangs which together form one of the most famous crags in Spain.

This high esteem never comes about by chance: Siurana has attracted climbers non-stop to its 200+ routes for decades. The style of climbing varies considerably, and although most routes are pocketed stamina climbs, there are plenty of short and intense lines to get to grips with. The grades vary from 5a to 9a+. Talking about 9a+: Siurana is home to the famous "La Rambla", the extraordinary reference route first climbed to 3/4 height by German Alexander Huber in 1994, then extended by Ramón Julián Puigblanque in 2003.

But Siurana is not all about top-end climbing, with more than 100 routes up to French 7a. The beautiful and wild landscape, the proximity to Barcellona (and low-cost flights) and the vast choice of other world-class crags (Margalef, Montsant and Arboli to name but three) render Siurana an ideal holiday destination.

Access

From Barcellona take the motorway E15 for Taragona. Exit for Reus and continue along the T11 for Les Borges del Camp, then turn off right onto the C242 for Cornudella di Montsant. From here begin the climb up to Siurana village (circa 150 km).

Logistics

We recommend sleeping in Siurana, either in the spartan Rifugio di Siurana or at the campsite 5 minutes from the village, where it is also possible to rent a bungalow (+34 977821383). Check out the link below. Alternatively, rent a room at Cornudella di Montsant.

Period

Siurana is located at 700m. Although climbing is possible all year round (making best use of the winter sun or summer shade) we recommend early spring or late autumn so as to enjoy all sectors.

Climb

Top quality pocketed limestone, few tufas. Stamina climbing on vertical walls, slabs and steep overhangs. Total number of routes up to: 4: 0 5: 19 6a: 14 6b: 22 6c: 32 7a: 23 7b: 35 7c: 21 8a: 16 8b+ +: 13 Total: 195

Notes

 

Bibliography

Guidebook and other information at the Rifugio or the campsite, both owned and run by local top-climber Toni Arbones. Alternatively, check out "Costa Daurada" by Mark Glaiser and Emma Williams




Sectors

Siurana
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
1 Gosgondriol constrictor 6b+
2 Sublim obsessio 7c+
3 Tros de ru 7b+
4 Terrorisme autoritzat 7b+
5 Rodriguez & Rodriguez 7b+
6 Canilla ris pal sobre 7c
7 Frodo nuevededos 7a+
8 Maese Samsagaz 7a
9 Bisky on the Rocks 7a
10 Tapbioles I Pirretes 6c+
11 Saiko dase 6b+
12 Gamba gamba 7b
13 Cruela de ville 7b
14 Harry el brut 7b
15 Tanoka 7c+
16 Eixuga-me-la i tornem-hi 7c+
17 Samba pal gringo 8a+
18 El Iogurin 7a
19 Toca-me-la sam 6c+
20 Segueix-me-la tocant 7b+
21 Tasta 7a
22 Accelera virtuoso 8a
23 Isadora donde estas 7b
24 Adria 6a
25 Siouxie 7c+
26 Project
27 Un rato en cada postura 8a
28 La balada des pendus 8b
29 Gigololo 8a+
30 Anabolica 8a
31 Mr. Cheki 8b+
32 Bou I prou 8b
33 Project
34 El membre 8c
35 L'odi social 8c+
36 Project
37 Renegoide 8b+
38 Gurungos 7b
39 Cleptomania 7c
40 Triste pesadilla 7b
41 Lullaby 7c
42 Delicatessen 7a+





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Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
5a - 9b
Height
60m
Routes number
200
Rock type
Limestone
Orientation
S
Rope
60m rope


Position



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