Alex Megos frees 'Tuareg Blanco' (9b/+) at Margalef

Alex Megos has a penchant for sharpest, most heinous pockets of Margalef. After onsighting 8c+ there in 2015, repeating First Round First Minute (9b) in 2016 and making the first ascents of Perfecto Mundo (9b+) in 2018 and The Full Journey (9b) in 2022, the 31-year-old German climber now checks in with the first ascent of Tuareg Blanco (9b/+).

The route in question boasts circa 20 extremely hard moves in its first 12-15 meters, before easing off considerably on the upper section. Megos first tried the line a few years ago but after investing 4 days of effort wisely decided to move on. This winter he returned and a further 11 days, spread out over three weeks, were needed for the redpoint. Just for reference: a few days earlier Megos required just three attempts to make the first ascent of a line bolted by Iker Pou, now called On Egin and graded 8c+

The fact that the 25m Tuareg Blanco was a long-standing Ramón Julián Puigblanque project speaks volumes about its difficulty. Despite sitting right in the middle of the classic Espadelles sector, this route won't be receiving a repeat in the near future.