Alex Megos completes The Full Journey (9b) at Margalef
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Meri Mendez
Alexander Megos is back in Margalef and once again the powerful, painful pockets are no match for the German’s steel tendons. After establishing the hardest route at the crag in 2018, the 9b+ Perfecto Mundo, Megos has now made the first ascent of another heinous test at the showpiece sector Racó de la Finestra calling it The Full Journey and grading it 9b.
The line was bolted by local British powerhouse Tom Bolger who in April 2022 climbed a first section, to an obvious jug and shakeout; called The Journey, these circa 18 meters check in at around 9a/+. Megos estimates that the 17 meter extension adds another 9a worth of climbing, notching the grade up to 9b.
Writing on his IG account, he explained "The first part is pure power-endurance on mostly two finger pockets with a hard mono move in the middle. The second part is a boulder with a rather violent dead point move to a mono and a few more hard moves after."
Megos had climbed the upper section in early April and briefly worked the moves of the first pitch, so before travelling to Spain he knew what he was letting himself in for. On his first day he sent The Journey, then needed another 6 more days of effort - or 12 attempts in total - prior to completing The Full Journey.
"If it wasn't for the good rest between the two parts this route would definitely be next level." explained the 29-year-old "With the rest it's still hard though. Both parts fit my style very well I'd say, so I'm curious to hear what repeaters think."
Making the most of his amazing form, yesterday Megos visited a new sector developed by Tom Bolger and grabbed a fast repeat of the aptly named Off the Tractor, flashed the 8c Patan el Villano, and also made the first ascent of Patata el Villano 8c+. All in just a few hours...
Link: alexander-megos.de, Petzl
