Alexander Megos repeats First Round, First Minute 9b at Margalef

First Round, First Minute. Or rather, in this specific case for Alexander Megos, last round, last minute since the German climber sent the 9b testpiece yesterday afternoon on his very last attempt of the year. Located at Margalef in Spain, the 25- move outing through one of the steepest roofs at Margalef was freed in April 2011 after an intense courtship by Chris Sharma and repeated by Adam Ondra in February 2014.

Megos sent First Round, First Minute after five days of effort, 3 in November (during which he redpointed Demencia Senil 9a+ and onsighted Victimes del Passat 8c+) and 2 now, and success came about on his 4th and final attempt of the day, Thursday 31 December 2015. After having ended the year on a high, he kicked off 2016 in style today by repeating First Ley 9a+ and the direct start to La Ley Indignata 9a.

The route heralds a new level of difficulty for the 22-year-old - this is his hardest climb to date - and follows a series of other highlights which include his hardest first ascent (Supernova 9a+/b, Frankenjura 10/2015), his first 8C boulder problem repeat (Lucid Dreaming, Bishop, USA, 01/2015), a one-day redpoint of Biographie 9a+ at Ceuse (07/2015), a two-hour redpoint of Action Directe 9a in the Frankenjura (05/2014). And, of course, the world's first 9a onsight, Estado Critico at Siurana in Spain in March 2013.

TOPO: Margalef, Spain

Alexander Megos thanks his sponsors: DMM, Patagonia, Tenaya, Entreprises and Sterling Ropes


20/04/2011 - Chris Sharma, the Margalef minutes
Interview with American climber Chris Sharma after his successful first ascent of First Round First Minute at Margalef, Spain.