Adam Ondra, Yuji Hirayama, Sachi Amma, Klemen Becan, hot climbing action at Flatanger and Oliana

Summer has officially only just begun and things are already hotting up at Flatanger, the immense granite grotto at Hanshellern in Norway that in recent years has rapidly transformed into the destination for the the world’s climbing elite that flock north to escape the summer heat. The cave boasts possibly the highest concentration of cutting-edge routes worldwide and most of the development is down to Adam Ondra, who almost single-handedly placed the crag on the world climbing map: his Change was the world’s first 9b+ and is flanked by another nine routes graded 9a or harder. The most recent addition was freed on Sunday by Ondra once again, is called 120 Degrees and climbs through the bouldery roof after starting up Elden Inuti, an 8c in its own right.

Japanese climbers Sachi Amma and Yuji Hirayama have failed to resist Flatanger’s draw and after making their 39-hour trip from Tokyo are currently getting a feel for the cave for their first time. This translates into Massih Attack 8b second-go for Amma and an impressive flash of the same route by evergreen Hirayama. With temperatures rising throughout Central Europe, more strong climbers and important ascents are expected in the near future.

Talking about strong climbers: Slovenia’s Klemen Bečan has redpointed his second 9a+, Chris Sharma’s Papichulo 9a+ at Oliana in Spain. Bečan’s ascent is interesting as perfect conditions are usually found at Oliana in winter, certainly not in mid-June. In March 2016 Bečan made the first ascent of his first 9a+, Joe Mama at Oliana, while in January 2015 he pulled off what might well be one of the hardest onsight first ascents of all times, Siempre se Puede Hacer Menos, a possible 8c+ at Chulilla in Spain.

Flatanger top climbs 
9b+ Change - first ascent: Adam Ondra
9b Move - first ascent: Adam Ondra
9b Iron Curtain - first ascent: Adam Ondra
9a+ 120 Degrees - first ascent: Adam Ondra
9a+ Thor's Hammer - first ascent: Adam Ondra
9a+ Kangaroo's Limb - first ascent: Adam Ondra
9a The Illusionist - first ascent: Adam Ondra
9a Witchhammer - first ascent: Adam Ondra
9a Brunhilde - first ascent: Adam Ondra
9a Little Badder - first ascent: Sébastian Bouin