Ussha - Pyramide du Tacul

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The first ascent of 'Ussha' on Pyramide du Tacul, Mont Blanc (Niccolò Bruni, Giovanni Ravizza, Michele Tixi 18/03/2025)
archivio Niccolò Bruni
Beauty
First ascent
Niccolò Bruni, Giovanni Ravizza, Michele Tixi 18/03/2025
Length
300m
Height
3468m
Difficulty
ED M7+
Departure
Punta Helbronner, Courmayeur

Route



Brilliant addition to the SE Face of Pyramide du Tacul. Ussha climbs to the left of the classic Via Ottoz and to the right of the route put up by Enrico Bonino and Gianni Carbone. Essentially, it follows the abseil line of Via Ottoz, and the final pitch of Ussha shares the final pitch of Ottoz. The climb features some bolted belays, while others require cams. Additionally, there is one peg on one of the last hard pitches. "It provides 8 spectacular pitches climbed with crampons and ice axes. There were plenty of thrilling moments, even run-out from the last piece of pro!" 

Getting there

Take the A5 motorway to reach Courmayeur and park at the Skyway cable car.

Descent

Abseil down the route, using the abseils of Via Ottoz

Gear

2 x 60m ropes, Cams C4 BD, a set from 0.2 - 4, double from 0.3 to 2, 1 blade or 1 pecker 

Notes

Published on: 24/03/2025






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Beauty
First ascent
Niccolò Bruni, Giovanni Ravizza, Michele Tixi 18/03/2025
Length
300m
Height
3468m
Difficulty
ED M7+
Departure
Punta Helbronner, Courmayeur

Route



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