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Slovenian TranGO Towers 2006

In late August a strong mixed Slovenian expedition travelled to Karakorum's Trango Towers where, despite unstable weather, they managed a remarkable number of repeats and first ascents

PlanetMountain

October 2006

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Planetmountain.com

In late August a strong mixed Slovenian expedition travelled to Karakorum's Trango Towers where, despite unstable weather, they managed a remarkable number of repeats and first ascents.

Silvo Karo teamed up with Andrej Grmovsek and made three swift one-day boltless first ascents in the Uli Biaho range as part of their acclimatisation process, before climbing the Great Trango tower via the American route. With poor weather and time running out the two opted for a repeat of Eternal flame on Nameless Tower (6251m). Climbing swiftly Karo and Grmovsek needed just 24 hours from Trango Col to the summit and back in what reminded them of their 2005 "Sitting start for Cerro Torre". The two encountered difficulties of VI, 7b, A2, M5 in the 1000m affair, believing the climbing to be more challenging than their route in Patagonia due to the altitude.

Not to be outdone, a female team comprised of Tina Di Batista, Tanja Grmovsek, and Aleksandra Voglar made an ascent of the Great Trango tower via the Selter-Woolum route, before carrying out an alpinestyle, first all-female ascent of the Eternal Flame.

Details of their full report can be read in the attached file. What is remarkable is how much they got done, in so little time, despite the weather!

Slovenian TranGO Towers 2006 climbing expedition
Men ascents:
First ascents:
Warming up ridge, V, 6b, 450m, 700m long, Uli byapjun, cca 4800m
FA, FFA, first ascent of the peak; 17th of August 2006; Andrej Grmovsek, Silvo Karo
Three hundred eggs, V+, 6b+, 600m, 850m long, Uli Biaho Great Spire, 5594m
FA, FFA, first ascent of the mountain; 20th of August 2006; Andrej Grmovsek, Silvo Karo
Piranski zaliv, V+, 7a, obl., 650m, 800m long, Base camp slabs, cca 4700m
FA, FFA; 31st of August 2006; Andrej Grmovsek, Silvo Karo

Ascents:
Eternal flame, VI, 7b, A2, M5, 1000m, Trango Nameless tower, 6239m, (20h)
20 hours of climbing from south col to the top; 8th of September 2006; Andrej Grmovsek, Silvo Karo
American route, ice and snow up to 80Â°, mainly 40Â°-60Â°, Great Trango tower, 6286 m
23rd of August 2006; Andrej Grmovsek, Silvo Karo
Oceano Trango, IV, 6a/b, 250m, 300m long, Base camp slabs, 26th of August 2006; Andrej Grmovsek, Silvo Karo

Women ascents:
Eternal flame, VI, 6c, A2, M5, 1000m, Trango Nameless tower, 6251m (6239m)
first all female ascent of the mountain, alpine style; 7– 9th of September 2006; Tina Di Batista, Tanja Grmovsek, Aleksandra Voglar
American route, ice and snow up to 80Â°, mainly 40Â°-60Â°, Great Trango tower, 6286 m
23th of August 2006; Tina Di Batista, Tanja Grmovsek, Aleksandra Voglar
Karakoram Khush, IV, 6a/b, 300m, Garda peak (4700m). We added a free variation to the start of the climb; 26th of August 2006; Tina Di Batista, Tanja Grmovsek, Aleksandra Voglar
Oceano Trango, IV, 6a/b, 300m, Base camp slabs - Pinocchio (cca 4350m)
We added two new pitches to the top of tower that we named Pinocchio; 29th of August 2006; Tina Di Batista, Tanja Grmovsek, Aleksandra Voglar