Simone Moro and Everest

Simone Moro gives details of his Everest ascent with Denis Urubku

Simone Moro

June 2000

Simone Moro on his return from Everest gives details of his ascent with Denis Urubku.

Somone Moro on Everest

Hi Mnet,

thank you for the news about my ascent of Everest. I just wanted to add some details.

I used supplementary oxygen on Everest between 8000m and 8400m only. I then closed the tap and climbed to the summit and descended without oxygen. I fell ill after having been on the South Col for three days and nights without oxygen while waiting for the best moment to make a summit bid (and not on the first day I arrived at 8000m).

I vomited not because of the altitude but because some food I ate had gone off. I vomited all night and it felt like I was bringing up blood (it wasn't - it was bile). Because of this I accepted the Americans' offer (and listened to the voice of reason) to use oxygen.

Although they gave me two bottles I only used 1/3 of one of them. I set the air flow at 1 (the valve can be regulated from 1 to 6). The bottles (American, not Russian) weighed 7kg each and I kept one in my rucksack during the entire ascent (it was snowing so I wouldn't have found them again had I left them somewhere - what a useless load!). I then carried the bottles, mask and breathing apparatus back down to Base Camp.

My ascent was "with oxygen" as I have always stated but I really do feel that I can do it without (Denis confirmed that I don't need that "gas"). Because of this and because I'm sure that the Everest-Lhotse Traverse is possible, I'll be back.

Ciao Simone.

(Simone Moro on the summit of Everest - Simone Moro archive)