Per Leila and 2 new icefalls in Friuli

It's a well know fact: Italy's Friuli region holds plenty of secrets for ice climbing. The nth confirmation of this are three new routes put up by Luca Vuerich which include "Per Leila" on the N Pillar of Cima Cenge in Val Riofreddo. This 120m test weighs in at 111/6+ and, as Vuerich himself recounts, is dedicated to someone special.


Per Leila by Luca Vuerich
After 12 years I returned to this spectacular wall of ice which always offers a series of difficult and interesting routes. I'd been keeping my eye on the lower variation to Tridente and this year plenty of water and cold temperatures finally enable this beautiful icefall to form completely.

It all happened almost by chance. Marco Milanese, a young local mountaineer
called to go ice climbing and he insisted on doing something difficult. I didn't miss out on the opportunity and since the weather forecast for the following week wasn't great I convinced myself that now was just the right moment.

As often happens I misjudged the difficulties from afar and on the first pitch I found myself in serious difficulties, climbing technical moves up a narrow corner and finishing up a hanging drip. Marco climbed the second pitch while I climbed the beautiful drip which presented delicate moves up excellent ice.

We prepared an Abalokov and abseiled 60m down to the ledge. Now was the most fun and relaxing moment, the descent through powder snow during which I thought about the name for the new route which I dedicated to the woman I love.

Luca Vuerich