Grandes Jorasses: new route by Gabarrou, Batoux and Dumarest

From 17 to 21 March Patrick Gabarrou, Philippe Batoux and Christophe Dumarest made the first ascent of a new route on the North Face of Punta Margherita (4066m) at the Grandes Jorasses, Mont Blanc.

PlanetMountain.com

April 2005

Traduci in

Punta Margherita, Grandes Jorasses, Monte Bianco, alpinismo

Talking about big mountains and great routes, here's some news from the hands of none other than Patrick Gabarrou, Philippe Batoux and Christophe Dumarest. From 17 to 21 March the French alpinists climbed a new direct line up the North Face of Punta Margherita (4066m) at the Grandes Jorasses, Mont Blanc.

This massive 850m line is comprised of 24 pitches, climbed by the trio with 4 bivouacs and difficulties up to VI, 4R, M5+, A3, 5c. The near vertical line is not broken by ledges and because of this the team opted for a big wall approach, hauling their bags and spending the nights on the portaledges.

The complicated route climbs sections of mixed and rock and ice. Gabarrou was injured 3 pitches from the summit when a loose rock hit his shoulder, forcing the 54 year old to return by helicopter after completing the line. His partners spent a final night on the mountain and returned safely to Chamonix on 22 March.

"The route is very sustained and we needed all our experience to climb it" commented Philippe Batoux. This is unlikely to be an exaggeration, seeing that this is his second F.A. on the wall ("A lei" with Patrick Gabbarou and Robert Benoit). And talking about great mountains, alpinists and first ascents: this is big Gab's fifth new route on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses.

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Photos: the line of the new route climbed by Patrick Gabarrou, Philippe Batoux and Christophe Dumarest on the North Face of Punta Margherita, Grandes Jorasses, Mont Blanc, and a portaledge bivouac. (photo archive Philippe Batoux).