Fred Nicole e Giuliano Cameroni, le due leggende scalano Legacy a Rocklands

Rocklands è sicuramente famoso per il boulder, un po’ meno per l’arrampicata trad anche se il potenziale è davvero enorme, ma ancora meno per l’arrampicata sportiva. Adesso invece nell’arco di pochi giorni è stata salita ben due volte quella che è sicuramente la via sportiva più difficile della zona, forse addirittura del paese.

Si tratta una linea composta da un boulder difficilissimo in partenza seguito da una uscita più facile. Il tiro é stato spittatto da una delle assolute leggende dell’arrampicata sportiva, il climber svizzero Fred Nicole nel 2015. A causa di un problema con l’anca i suoi tentativi nel 2017 e 2018 non sono andati a buon fine, e solo in questa stagione grazie ad un’operazione chirurgica e una nuova sequenza lo svizzero è riuscito a salire il tiro cadendo soltanto una volta, dopo la sezione chiave.

A liberare il tiro è stato il suo connazionale Giuliano Cameroni, in forma smagliante dopo la prima libera di un 8B in stile flash e la ripetizione di uno degli 8C di riferimento di Rocklands, Finnish Line. Il giovane climber aveva chiesto e ottenuto il consenso da Nicole di poter provare il tiro e dopo tre giorni di tentavi è arrivata la prima libera, mentre soli due giorni più tardi Nicole è riuscito anche lui ad arrivare in cima. Il grado è 9a, mentre il nome della via è Legacy.

View this post on Instagram

Yesterday I was finally able to finish a project that had many up and downs like seldom in my life. 2014 I saw this beautiful line and with Joe we started looking at the movements. 2015 Sean asked Cape Conservation for permission to bolt and I started seriously working on it. The route has 2 parts: a really hard boulder on tiny slick holds, followed by an easier but sustained section to the top. I started to understand the moves of the boulder section but wasn’t able to put it together. The following season was my best and I did the route in two sections. 2017 and 2018 I was struggling to do the moves due to a hip problem, so that I spend a lot of time finding solutions that worked with an handicap. November 2018 I had a hip replacement as even walking was getting impossible without pain. When I came back this year I didn’t know what to expect. I was surprised to see that my flexibility was back and I could do the moves again. But there was something lacking and one day when I was working on the route with Joe and Kaddi, she proposed a slightly different version that made the first section possible again. On my best go I fell just after the crux section, and was able to do it till the top. Unfortunately the following tries didn’t go well. When Giuliano asked me if I mind him trying the route I sincerely didn’t know what to answer. In my generation it’s not usual to try somebody’s project till the person does it or gives it free. In the same time I didn’t feel like telling somebody I know since he was born, and that I respect for his performances, not to try it. I let the decision to him and wished him sincerely luck if he would go for it! A few days later „Legacy“ was born! Yesterday the weather was on my side and with a cold wind I was able to link both sections together and do this personal challenge. I’m not interested in the controversy this route has built. The important things for me remain respecting the ethics, the people, the nature, the rocks and staying open for constructive discussions as we can all learn from each other and keep having fun! @fiveten_official @blackdiamond @e9clothing_official @climbskinspain #rocklands #bouldering

A post shared by Fred Nicole (@fred_nicole) on Sep 14, 2019 at 4:45am PDT

View this post on Instagram

“Legacy” (9a/5.14d) FA Since my first trip to Rocklands, I’ve always admired this beautiful and unique wall on top of Roadside. This year I improved my climbing vision, and when I stood again underneath the wall I felt a strong desire to climb it. I knew that Fred was trying it, so I asked if I could join the game. He allowed me so, and I was happy with his response. A week later, after three days of work, I could climb the route for its first ascent. Two days later, Fred sent me a cheerful message saying that he had finally done it! His beta is harder than mine because he can’t use a left heel hook, so I was very impressed and inspired by his ascent. Fred is a very humble person and before I climbed the route he didn’t tell me how close he was to send it. I’m happy for him, and since he’s put a lot more effort than me, it seems correct from my side to share the first ascent. Rocks have been there forever, which means that first ascents are important only because the name of the climber will be attached to the climb he’s done first. In this situation Fred deserves the same credits as me, so I’m happy to share this with him, who’s been one of my heroes since I started climbing! Side note: in my generation we tend not to close projects anymore, rocks are free and everyone is able to enjoy them. I found and cleaned a lot of beautiful boulders, and I always shared them with other climbers. My goals are simple: try hard, have fun and inspire people to find and share all the beautiful rocks the world has to offer. In my opinion this is the best way to progress our sport, by working as a team instead of competing against each other. I hope many climbers of every generation share this opinion

A post shared by Giuliano Cameroni (@giuliano_cameroni) on Sep 15, 2019 at 8:16am PDT