Toxic Mushroom - Mont Noir de Peutérey

Niccolò Bruni
1 / 7
The first ascent of 'Goulotte Toxic Mushroom' on Mont Noir de Peutérey (Niccolò Bruni, Giovanni Ravizza, Michele Tixi 30/01 & 06/02/2024)
archivio Niccolò Bruni
Beauty
First ascent
Niccolò Bruni, Giovanni Ravizza, Michele Tixi 30/01 & 06/02/2024
By
Niccolò Bruni
Length
450m
Difficulty
ED+, M8, AI 5+
Departure
Val Veny

Route



A magnificent mixed climb with superb quality rock on the east face of the huge shield on Mont Noir de Peutérey. Every pitch is worth climbing and highly satisfying.

Access

From the La Sorgente campsite in Val Veny follow the woods that lead to the Brenva moraine and up to the base of the face. 1 hour 30min

Itinerary

P1: AI 5+ 60m
P2: 
AI 3 60m
P3: 
M6 45m (1 bolts)
P4: 
M7 40m (8 bolts)
P5: 
AI 3+ 50m
P6: 
M8? 40m (6 bolts)
P7: 
M5+ 50m
P8: 
M6+ 40m (2 bolts)
P9: 
M6+/M7 ? 25m climbs (3 bolts)

A further 15m left to exit onto the shoulder, take 4/5 pegs for this and to make the final belay. All belays are with 2 bolts and abseil ring.

Gear

2x60m ropes, cams BD C4 from 0.3 to 3, double 0.5-0.75, 6 short ice screws, 10/12 quickdraws





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Beauty
First ascent
Niccolò Bruni, Giovanni Ravizza, Michele Tixi 30/01 & 06/02/2024
By
Niccolò Bruni
Length
450m
Difficulty
ED+, M8, AI 5+
Departure
Val Veny

Route



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