Surveiller et Punir - Gorges du Verdon
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Surveiller et Punir: Verdon Gorge. Photo Francesco Piardi
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Jean Marc Troussier, 1981
By
Planetmountain
Orientation
SW
Length
120m
Height
1000m
Difficulty
7a+
Obligatory difficulty
6c+
Period
Spring and autumn. The Gorges du Verdon are situated on a plateau at almost 1000m: summer can oftern be too hot, while from October onwards it may be too cold to climb.
Fabulous 7a+ multi-pitch, one of the best and most photographed in the Verdon Gorge, first ascended in 1981 by Jean Marc Troussier. After a gentle first two pitches the route kicks in with a technical 7a+ crux, to finish in style with a sustained and not to be understimated 7a final pitch.
Getting there
From the north: take the A6 motoway to Avignon and take the N100 for Apt, then Manosque and Riez. From here take the D56 to Moustiers, and continue along the D952 to La Palud.
From the south: from Nice take the N85 to Castellane, and continue along the D952 for La Palud. Shortly before entering the village turn left along the D23, the panoramic Route des Cretes, which leads to the Belvedere de la Carelle lookout and the routes. Access
Park the car above the belvedere, then reach the Belvedere de l'Escales. Abseil down Frimes et Chatiments (25m, 50m, 45m). The route starts on a small ramp a few meters to the right. Itinerary
P1: 6b+
P2: 6c
P3: 7a+
P4: 7a Gear
Two 60/70m ropes are indespensable. Bring 2 prussik loops for the abseils and 12 quickdraws. Notes
The Verdon requires perfect abseiling technique. Never forget to tie a knot in the end of the ropes, and tie into prussik loops, prior to abseiling.
Maps/Bibliography
"Escalade au Verdon" by P. Légier, F. Ristori and A. Jami
From the north: take the A6 motoway to Avignon and take the N100 for Apt, then Manosque and Riez. From here take the D56 to Moustiers, and continue along the D952 to La Palud.
From the south: from Nice take the N85 to Castellane, and continue along the D952 for La Palud. Shortly before entering the village turn left along the D23, the panoramic Route des Cretes, which leads to the Belvedere de la Carelle lookout and the routes. Access
Park the car above the belvedere, then reach the Belvedere de l'Escales. Abseil down Frimes et Chatiments (25m, 50m, 45m). The route starts on a small ramp a few meters to the right. Itinerary
P1: 6b+
P2: 6c
P3: 7a+
P4: 7a Gear
Two 60/70m ropes are indespensable. Bring 2 prussik loops for the abseils and 12 quickdraws. Notes
The Verdon requires perfect abseiling technique. Never forget to tie a knot in the end of the ropes, and tie into prussik loops, prior to abseiling.
Maps/Bibliography
"Escalade au Verdon" by P. Légier, F. Ristori and A. Jami
See all photos
Comments
10/11/2009 Nicholas Hobley
Brilliant route, technical, one of the best of its kind. The crux pitch is tricky but short, the final pitch is technically easier but nevertheless no walk-over.
Beauty
First ascent
Jean Marc Troussier, 1981
By
Planetmountain
Orientation
SW
Length
120m
Height
1000m
Difficulty
7a+
Obligatory difficulty
6c+
Period
Spring and autumn. The Gorges du Verdon are situated on a plateau at almost 1000m: summer can oftern be too hot, while from October onwards it may be too cold to climb.
Routes in the same mountain group
Related news
06/11/2009 - Climbing
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