Frisch - Corradini - Pala del Rifugio
Copia link
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
H. Frisch & P. Corradini, 1967
By
Planetmountain
Orientation
NW
Length
500m (+ 200 on Spigolo Castiglioni-Detassis)
Height
2394 m
Difficulty
V+ (TD)
Route
The Frisch - Corradini was the reference route in Val Canali for many years and it is one of thre great Dolomite classics of its grade. It climbs up excellent rock the NW Face of Pala and share the final 200m with the Castiglioni - Detassis on the NW arête.
The route is varied and takes a logical line. The first four pitches and a traverse lead to the arête in the center of the face. From here the route continues up the face, past a characterisic crack formed by a small pillarm a horizontal 15m traverse leftwards and a climb up to a narrow ledge. It now continues with a corner and a diagonal pitch around the arête. This leads to the final section with leads via a crack to the large obvious roof, which is climbed diagonally to the left. Another pitch leads past the small roof and chimney to the second shoulder of the NW arête. Follow this to the summit via the Castiglioni - Detassis (a loginal 200m line uo the arête).
The route is varied and takes a logical line. The first four pitches and a traverse lead to the arête in the center of the face. From here the route continues up the face, past a characterisic crack formed by a small pillarm a horizontal 15m traverse leftwards and a climb up to a narrow ledge. It now continues with a corner and a diagonal pitch around the arête. This leads to the final section with leads via a crack to the large obvious roof, which is climbed diagonally to the left. Another pitch leads past the small roof and chimney to the second shoulder of the NW arête. Follow this to the summit via the Castiglioni - Detassis (a loginal 200m line uo the arête).
Access
From Rifugio Treviso walk up path No. 707 to the end of the vegetation, then continue up the scree slope to the base of the wall. The start is on the right next to a large cairn marker. Descent
The descent is entirely marked throughout. From the summit descend east down the tack which leads to the gully which faces onto Vallon delle Mughe. Scramble and traverse down this face, leaving a small col on your left. From here do not ascent the first gully but the following one (Grade III) which leads to a shoulder. Descend quickly north and traverse the face east. This leads to a small gully which climbs to the col between Pala del Rifugio and Sass d'Ortiga (wedged block). Descend south to a ledge and follow this (track) to a the section equipped with steel cables. Continue along the ledge which leads to the col Forcella delle Mughe and from here take path No. 750 back to Rifugio Treviso (2.30 hours to the hut). Gear
Full rack. Notes
Previously published in Alp Grandi Montagne #20 Pale di San Martino
From Rifugio Treviso walk up path No. 707 to the end of the vegetation, then continue up the scree slope to the base of the wall. The start is on the right next to a large cairn marker. Descent
The descent is entirely marked throughout. From the summit descend east down the tack which leads to the gully which faces onto Vallon delle Mughe. Scramble and traverse down this face, leaving a small col on your left. From here do not ascent the first gully but the following one (Grade III) which leads to a shoulder. Descend quickly north and traverse the face east. This leads to a small gully which climbs to the col between Pala del Rifugio and Sass d'Ortiga (wedged block). Descend south to a ledge and follow this (track) to a the section equipped with steel cables. Continue along the ledge which leads to the col Forcella delle Mughe and from here take path No. 750 back to Rifugio Treviso (2.30 hours to the hut). Gear
Full rack. Notes
Previously published in Alp Grandi Montagne #20 Pale di San Martino
Comments
03/07/2009 alan sacchin
Anche io ho percorso circa 10 anni fa la Frisch Corradini e me la ricordo come una bellissima via con roccia ottima...il bello delle dolomiti è che si possono trovare linee molto logiche e linee da cercare, ma forse chi è abituato ad arrampicare solo su fessure granitiche non ama queste ultime...
09/06/2009 alex cibi
Ho percorso la Frish-Corradini vent'anni fa e ancora me la ricordo come una via splendida. Perciò trovo un po' strana una critica così lapidaria (not recommended) espressa dal Sig.Swen. E'vero che le prime quattro lunghezze non sono granchè, ma la roccia è comunque buona e c'è solo un po' d'erba e direi inoltre che in giro c'è di peggio.Restano comunque una dozzina di tiri su roccia ottima, molto belli e su difficoltà di quinto grado: averne di vie del genere in Dolomiti. Per quanto riguarda la linea (The line is not obvious) forse per il Sig.Swen sarebbe meglio arrampicare dove l'ovvietà della linea è data dalla sequenza degli spit: la Frisch-Corradini è una via, anche se sembra salire su spigolo, di parete, con pochissimi chiodi (così era vent'anni fa) e dove ci vuole un minimo di fiuto per la via di salita.
Comunque basta leggere altri commenti in rete per farsi un'idea della bellezza di questa via: se non si raccomanda una via del genere allora in Dolomiti tre quarti delle delle vie di quinto sono da buttare!
15/05/2009 Swen Harald
The route is not really that nice. The line is not obvious and the rock at the start is not that good (start is often wet and is quite vegetated). I only liked the dihedral+traverse in the middle. Not recommended.
Beauty
First ascent
H. Frisch & P. Corradini, 1967
By
Planetmountain
Orientation
NW
Length
500m (+ 200 on Spigolo Castiglioni-Detassis)
Height
2394 m
Difficulty
V+ (TD)
Route
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