Spigolo Costantini - Ghedina - Tofana di Rozes
Copia link
Planetmountain
1 / 4
Planetmountain
A relatively easy and popular climb (UIAA 4 and 5, one 6- crux) up the left-hand arête of the Pilastro della Tofana di Rozes. The three hard pitches traverse leftwards past two large yellow roofs at half height. Paradoxically, the large quantity of in-situ gear off-route makes correct route finding difficult!
Drive to Rifugio Dibona, at the foot of the Tofana di Rozes. This is reached from Cotina by driving towards Passo Falzarego, past Pocol and few hairpin bends, and turning off right up onto the dirt track following signs for the refuge.
AccessApproach this climb by walking up to the base of the pillar from the rifugio Dibona. Walk up the gully behind the arête and reach the arête proper by walking along a ledge. The route starts on the left beneath the diagonal corner. Allow about 30 minutes for the walk-in.
DescentReach the top of the pillar in the same place as Costantini - Appolonio and then traverse along the ledge towards the Punta Marietta buttress. Walk down the scree and ledges to the base of the buttress, and then walk around this on exposed terrain. Now descend past huge boulders to the rifugio Giussani.
GearAlthough there is some in-situ gear, bring a full trad rack.
Comments
