Spigolo Sam - Tofana di Rozes
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Enrico Maioni, Mountain Guide
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Planetmountain
Great route established by Massimo Da Pozzo up the second arête on the Pilastro della Tofana di Rozes.
With all belays equipped for the abseils and its south facing orientation, Spigolo Sam is certainly an interesting outing on one of the most famous rock faces in the Dolomites.
From Cortina d'Ampezzo reach Rifugio Dibona, at the foot of the Tofana di Rozes. This is reached from Cortina by driving towards Passo Falzarego, past Pocol and few hairpin bends, and turning off right up onto the dirt track following signs for the refuge.
AccessApproach this climb by walking up to the base of the pillar from rifugio Dibona. Take the obvious path from the hut which leads to the base of the pillar in circa 30 minutes. The start is located close to a corner on the left-hand side (west) of the imposing
Pilastro della Tofana di Rozes (bolt visibile).
P1: 6b
P2: 6b
P3: 4+
P4: 6b
P5: 6b
P6: 6b
P7: 6c
P8: 6a
P9: 6a
P10: 4
P11: 4
P12: 5+
P13: 4
Descend as for all other routes on this pillar: follow obvious tracks north to reach Rifugio Giussani and then descend back down to Rifugio Dibona (1.15 hours circa).
Gear10 quickdraws, two ropes (usuful for an abseil off the route), a selection of nuts and mid-sized camming devices.
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