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Viki krema - Tofana di Rozes

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Viki krema: The route line of Viki krema, established by Tomaž Jakofčič an Luka Lindič

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Beauty

First ascent

Tomaž Jakofčič, Luka Lindič summer 2011

Planetmountain.com

Orientation

South

Length

800 m

Difficulty

VIII+/IX-

Obligatory difficulty

VIII-

Route

Viki krema climbs the immense South Face of the Tofana di Rozes.

The route starts in the triangular face to the right of the classic Eötvös Dimai. Above the big amphitheatre it climbs the steep yellow wall to the left of the route established in 1977 by the local Cortina-based Scoitattoli climbers Andrea Menardi and Carlo Michielli. Jakofčič and Lindic established the route over a four day period ground-up, then freed it on 28 and 29 September, forging their way through the last unknown 100m of steep ground.

Jakofčič commented: "Viki krema is not an alpine sport climb and despite the bolts it is a rather serious undertaking with long sections without bolts. Everything we used (23 bolts, four pitons and equiped belays) was left in-situ, apart from the trad rack. Expect 8-10 hours of climbing. One set of friends, nuts and tricams should be sufficient for a skilled climbers. The route generally follows very good rock and the exposure and views from the upper wall are simply awesome."

Getting there
Drive to Rifugio Dibona, at the foot of the Tofana di Rozes. This is reached from Cotina by driving towards Passo Falzarego, past Pocol and few hairpin bends, and turning off right up onto the dirt track following signs for the refuge. Access
From Rifugio Dibona follow path no. 442 beneath the South Face of the Tofana di Rozes. Gear
One set of friends, nuts and tricams should be sufficient for a skilled climbers.