Rêve de Fer - Gorges du Verdon
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Francesco Piardi
Hailed as one of the best multi-pitches in the Verdon, Rêve de Fer is quite simply a must. The rock quality and ambience render this 4 pitch climb a truly unforgettable outing.
From the north: take the A6 motoway to Avignon and take the N100 for Apt, then Manosque and Riez. From here take the D56 to Moustiers, and continue along the D952 to La Palud.
From the south: from Nice take the N85 to Castellane, and continue along the D952 for La Palud. Shortly before entering the village turn left along the D23, the panoramic Route des Cretes, which leads to the Belvedere de la Carelle lookout and the routes.
Park the car at the Belvedere de la Carelle and follow the path right up through the shrub. The sector is marked with a plaque and cairn. To get to the route scramble down on to the ledge.
GPS coordinates: 43°46'24.1"N 6°22'53.5"E
P1: 6a+
P2: 6b
P3: 6b
P4: 6b+
Two 60/70m ropes. Bring 2 prussik loops for the abseils and 12 quickdraws.
NotesThe Verdon requires perfect abseiling technique. Never forget to tie a knot in the end of the ropes, and tie into prussik loops, prior to abseiling.
Maps/Bibliography"Escalade au Verdon" by P. Légier, F. Ristori and A. Jam
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