Quel calcare nell anima - Tofana di Rozes
Copia link
Marco Sterni
1 / 4
Planetmountain
Route first ascended from the ground up using stainless steel 10mm bolts. Although not top end, the difficulties are continuous and the route is strenuous due to its length. Medium and small camming devices recommend.
From Cortina take the road SS48 that leads up to Passo Falzarego. Park the car about 1km before the pass, next to the bar/restaurant Ra Nona (1985m).
AccessTake path no. 412 that leads away from the bar towards Forcella Col dei Bos. After10 minutes the path transforms into a dirt track; continue up to the Col (2330m), and from here do not follow signs right for the "Ferrata del Castelletto", but instead proceed along the path that leads to Val Travenanzes until the sign for "Ferrata Lipella". Turn off right, reach the "mysterious boulder" (so-called as it is neatly divided in half) and continue on for a further 5 minutes to reach the north-west face of the Castelletto. Continue down towards the West Face of Tofana di Rozes, following the obvious trentch. Traverse beneath the wall for a few hundred meters to reach the base of the pillar (1.30 hrs from the car). The start of "Quel calcare nell'anima" is located on the extreme left-hand side of the pillar which is broken by two ledges which mark the top o the first and second pitches. The route has been equipped with gold coloured stainless steel Fixe bolts.
DescentDescend down the Ferrata Lipella. Alternatively, abseil down the line of ascent (55m ropes).
Gear10 long quickdraws, a set of medium and small camming devices, two 55m ropes.
Comments
