Mtbness - Aiguilles Marbrées
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Ezio Marlier, Mountain Guide
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Mtbness: Aiguilles Marbrées Mont Blanc, Ezio Marlier, Luigi Santini, Jonathan Bracey, David Horwood
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Jonathan Bracey, David Horwood, Ezio Marlier, Luigi Santini 30/04/2019
By
Ezio Marlier, Mountain Guide
Orientation
NW
Height
3535m
Difficulty
TD+, M6+
Route
Mtbness on Aiguilles Marbrées is a very logical climb up the left-hand side of the mountain, a few meters to the right of a summer rock route equipped with pegs. It follows a series of frozen corners to reach the couloir up high, along the most natural line of weakness.
Getting there
Reach Courmayeur in Italy and take the Skyway cable car up to Rifugio Torino. Access
From Rifugio Torino proceed slightly downhill, along the track that leads to the Dent du Geant de and Colle di Marbree, until the track begins to ascend. The rock face is on the right, 15 minutes from the hut. Starting altitude 3300m. Itinerary
P1: M5 thing crack and corner, 2 bolts, belay on terrace on left
P2: M6+, 7/8 of the corner are rather difficult and made sweeter with two bolts. Belay on the left !
P3: M4, from the belay traverse slightly rightwards (do not follow the pegs left). Bolt 10m higher to the right
P4: head towards the couloir on the left past normal mountain terrain & difficulties
P5: follow the gully to the breche Gear
Friends up to BD blue, set of nuts, slings. One 70m rope
Reach Courmayeur in Italy and take the Skyway cable car up to Rifugio Torino. Access
From Rifugio Torino proceed slightly downhill, along the track that leads to the Dent du Geant de and Colle di Marbree, until the track begins to ascend. The rock face is on the right, 15 minutes from the hut. Starting altitude 3300m. Itinerary
P1: M5 thing crack and corner, 2 bolts, belay on terrace on left
P2: M6+, 7/8 of the corner are rather difficult and made sweeter with two bolts. Belay on the left !
P3: M4, from the belay traverse slightly rightwards (do not follow the pegs left). Bolt 10m higher to the right
P4: head towards the couloir on the left past normal mountain terrain & difficulties
P5: follow the gully to the breche Gear
Friends up to BD blue, set of nuts, slings. One 70m rope
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Beauty
First ascent
Jonathan Bracey, David Horwood, Ezio Marlier, Luigi Santini 30/04/2019
By
Ezio Marlier, Mountain Guide
Orientation
NW
Height
3535m
Difficulty
TD+, M6+
Route
Routes in the same mountain group
Related news
24/05/2019 - Alpinism
Aiguilles Marbrées: new mixed climb Mtbness in Mont Blanc massif Ezio Marlier reports about Mtbness, a new mixed climb up Aiguilles Marbrées (3535 m) in the Mont Blanc massif, first ascended with Luigi Santini, Jonathan Bracey and David Horwood.