Luca Cornella
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La Guerriera
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Luca Cornella, Michel Ghezzi summer 2015
By
Luca Cornella
Orientation
South
Length
290m
Height
2700m
Difficulty
7b
Period
Summer

Route



La Guerriera was established after having discovered the line abseiling off Sguardo al Passato. 9 pitches and 290m lead to the top of the route, circa 150m short of the summit which is reached via a grade II scramble.

All belays are equipped with 10mm bolts and, where necessary, a ring bolt is in-situ for the abseils. The route is generally peg protected, but 3 bolts were placed on both pitches 1 and 2. The climb is protected by 22 pegs, 6 threads, 6 bolts plus the 8 bolts at the belays.

Getting there
Reach Rifugio Silvio Agostini, located in the southern part of the Brenta Dolomites. Access

From Rifugio Agostini ascend towards the Via Ferrata Castiglioni and when the path leads decidely left (after circa 20 minutes) towards Cima Susat, turn right and ascend the scree slope located between Cima Bassa d’Ambiez and Cima d’Ambiez (snow fields at the start of the season). The route starts on the righthand side of the overhang. The wood plaque with the route name and route book are located below the roof (45 minutes).

Descent
6 abseils lead quickly back down the route. Take care when you abseil into the detached pillar: scramble up this for 20m (grade II scramble) and recuperate the ropes and continue down the remaining 3 abseils (1.5 hours) Notes
We dedicate this route to those who, through her true “warrior” courage, has taught us never to surrender when faced with difficulties in life.




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