Hasse Brandler - Cima Grande di Lavaredo
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Hasse Brandler
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Lothar Brandler, Dieter Hasse, Jörg Lehne, Sigi Löw, 1958
By
Planetmountain
Orientation
North
Length
550m
Difficulty
7a+
Obligatory difficulty
6/A2
Route
An important old aid-route that takes a direct line up the North Face of the Cima Grande. Regardless of the style of ascent, the route, due to its 18 pitches, is very tiring and thus requires a certain level of fitness. Most belays are bolt protected and the pitches have plenty of gear, however not all pegs are trustworthy.
Getting there
The ideal starting points are Cortina d'Ampezzo and Auronzo.
These can be reached from the north via the Pusteria Valley, or from the south by first taking the motorway (A27) to Longarone and then following the state road northwards. Both points of departure lead to Misurina, from where a private toll-road winds steeply almost to the base of the Tre Cime's south faces. Park the car at Rifugio Auronzo, situated at the end of the road and either sleep here or in Rifugio Lavaredo, reached by following the path for 15 minutes underneath the majestic South Faces which contain, amongst many other famous routes, the Spigolo Giallo. Access
Approach via Hasse by following the path from the rifugio di Lavaredo to the Forcella Lavaredo. Continue on a small track which traverses left underneath the base of the North Faces. The route starts on the right-hand side of the face, close to the pedestal of Via Comici. Route-finding skills are extremely important on the first two pitches, especially since a fast early morning start is essential! The original start tackles a smooth slab close to a crack-lined pillar. The top of this can otherwise be reached easily by starting slightly further to the right. Then follow a leftwards rising traverse line (loose) to a small roof (nut and bolt belay). And then from here on upwards! Descent
Via the normal route on the South Face. After the final pitch walk leftwards along a large ledge to the cairns that mark the normal route. Abseil down the chimney using two 50m ropes and continue by downclimbing until the scree below is reached. Follow the cairn markers leftwards, until a short abseil leads close to a saddle. Reach the saddle (Southeast Face) and steep, east facing gully; this can abseiled or downclimbed (UIAA 2). The final leap can be avoided by traversing leftwards along the ledge and reaching the gully that separates the Cima Grande from the Cima Piccola. Gear
Take a full set of wires, some medium-size friends, slings and plenty of quickdraws.
The ideal starting points are Cortina d'Ampezzo and Auronzo.
These can be reached from the north via the Pusteria Valley, or from the south by first taking the motorway (A27) to Longarone and then following the state road northwards. Both points of departure lead to Misurina, from where a private toll-road winds steeply almost to the base of the Tre Cime's south faces. Park the car at Rifugio Auronzo, situated at the end of the road and either sleep here or in Rifugio Lavaredo, reached by following the path for 15 minutes underneath the majestic South Faces which contain, amongst many other famous routes, the Spigolo Giallo. Access
Approach via Hasse by following the path from the rifugio di Lavaredo to the Forcella Lavaredo. Continue on a small track which traverses left underneath the base of the North Faces. The route starts on the right-hand side of the face, close to the pedestal of Via Comici. Route-finding skills are extremely important on the first two pitches, especially since a fast early morning start is essential! The original start tackles a smooth slab close to a crack-lined pillar. The top of this can otherwise be reached easily by starting slightly further to the right. Then follow a leftwards rising traverse line (loose) to a small roof (nut and bolt belay). And then from here on upwards! Descent
Via the normal route on the South Face. After the final pitch walk leftwards along a large ledge to the cairns that mark the normal route. Abseil down the chimney using two 50m ropes and continue by downclimbing until the scree below is reached. Follow the cairn markers leftwards, until a short abseil leads close to a saddle. Reach the saddle (Southeast Face) and steep, east facing gully; this can abseiled or downclimbed (UIAA 2). The final leap can be avoided by traversing leftwards along the ledge and reaching the gully that separates the Cima Grande from the Cima Piccola. Gear
Take a full set of wires, some medium-size friends, slings and plenty of quickdraws.
Comments
12/07/2010 Fabrizio Della Rossa
Brutta sorpresa trovare spit nn solo alle soste ma anche lungo i tiri, lo trovo 1 sputo al valore della via e dei suoi primi salitori, nn solo, anche irrispettoso di quelle cordate che affrontano la via con una preparazione adeguata ad affrontare quelle difficoltà con protezioni trad e nn spit.
26/04/2010 Diego Pezzoli
Fantastica via in ambiente mozzafiato! Impegnativa ma di gran soddisfazione!
Bravi Marco e Mirko! Complimenti ancora per la libera!!! Livello!
21/08/2009 Marco Bermejo
Bellissima via, completata tutta in libera a vista il 16 Agosto '09, anche se alguni tiri erano un po bagnati...
Vale veramente la pena!
Cerco l'indirizzo dei 2 bergamaschi che avevamo dietro, per scambiare foto...
10/09/2006 Christian
Via super con un'esposizione incredibile! La parte bassa non è per niente banale come il primo tiro di 7 nei diedri, noi abbiamo trovato i diedri strpiombanti completamente bagnati però in compenso i camini terminali erano asciutti e secondo noi il grado dato è giusto, ma se si trovano bagnati la difficoltà cambiano completamente.Una via da ripetere!!!
Beauty
First ascent
Lothar Brandler, Dieter Hasse, Jörg Lehne, Sigi Löw, 1958
By
Planetmountain
Orientation
North
Length
550m
Difficulty
7a+
Obligatory difficulty
6/A2
Route
Routes in the same mountain group
