DNA - Croda degli Alpini / Cima Ovest di Lavaredo
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DNA: Croda degli Alpini, Cima Ovest delle Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Dolomites - Simon Gietl, Andrea Oberbacher
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Simon Gietl, Andrea Oberbacher 21/06/2020
By
Simon Giet, Mountain Guide
Orientation
South
Difficulty
VII+
Route
DNA climbs the south face of Croda degli Alpini, the sunny foresummit of Cima Ovest in the Tre Cime di Lavaredo group of the Italian Dolomites. Seven long pitches with difficulties up to VII+ led them to the top of Croda degli Alpini, from where they descended via the mountain’s Normal Route. All pegs placed at the belays were left in-situ, while they protected the climbing on the pitches with wires, cams and threads only. DNA is a pretty nice route, ideal for those who already have plenty of experience climbing alpine multi-pitches
Getting there
The ideal starting points are Cortina d'Ampezzo and Auronzo.
These can be reached from the north via the Pusteria Valley, or from the south by first taking the motorway (A27) to Longarone and then following the state road northwards. Both points of departure lead to Misurina, from where a private toll-road winds steeply almost to the base of the Tre Cime's south faces. Park the car at Rifugio Auronzo, situated at the end of the road and either sleep here or in Rifugio Lavaredo, reached by following the path for 15 minutes underneath the majestic South Faces which contain, amongst many other famous routes, the Spigolo Giallo.
Access
From the highest car park above Rifugio Auronzo follow the path that leads up the normal route of Cima Ovest. After walking along the base of il Mulo scramble up the scree slope to reach the base of the route. Descent
Descend on foot down the normal route. Gear
Full rack, wires, cams, pegs + hammer Notes
DNA was climbed onsight and in just a single day. Loose rock at times. Do not climb in high season when there are many people on the path below.
The ideal starting points are Cortina d'Ampezzo and Auronzo.
These can be reached from the north via the Pusteria Valley, or from the south by first taking the motorway (A27) to Longarone and then following the state road northwards. Both points of departure lead to Misurina, from where a private toll-road winds steeply almost to the base of the Tre Cime's south faces. Park the car at Rifugio Auronzo, situated at the end of the road and either sleep here or in Rifugio Lavaredo, reached by following the path for 15 minutes underneath the majestic South Faces which contain, amongst many other famous routes, the Spigolo Giallo.
Access
From the highest car park above Rifugio Auronzo follow the path that leads up the normal route of Cima Ovest. After walking along the base of il Mulo scramble up the scree slope to reach the base of the route. Descent
Descend on foot down the normal route. Gear
Full rack, wires, cams, pegs + hammer Notes
DNA was climbed onsight and in just a single day. Loose rock at times. Do not climb in high season when there are many people on the path below.
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Beauty
First ascent
Simon Gietl, Andrea Oberbacher 21/06/2020
By
Simon Giet, Mountain Guide
Orientation
South
Difficulty
VII+
Route
Routes in the same mountain group
Show more in Tre Cime di Lavaredo
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24/07/2020 - Alpinism
Simon Gietl, Andrea Oberbacher decipher their DNA on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo The two mountain guides Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher have made the first ascent of DNA, a new multi-pitch rock climb up Croda degli Alpini, the foresummit of Cima...