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Zeitsprung - Cima Grande di Lavaredo

Italy>Dolomites>Tre Cime di Lavaredo>Cima Grande di Lavaredo

Hannes Pfeifhofer

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Zeitsprung: Große Zinne, Cima Grande di Lavaredo, Hannes Pfeifhofer, Dietmar Niederbrunner

Planetmountain

Beauty

First ascent

Hannes Pfeifhofer, Diddi Niederbrunner 2019

Hannes Pfeifhofer

Orientation

East

Difficulty

V+

Route

Zeitsprung is a great, interesting climb up the East Face of Cima Grande di Lavaredo. It starts circa 20 meters above the normal route and follows a logical line up slabs and cracks past good quality rock. The route breaches moderate difficulties of grade V+ UIAA. After the ninth pitch it is possible to continue straight up and join the Normal route - useful in case of bad weather - or traverse rightwards along the ledge and then continue upwards for another 5 pitches to reach the ledge at mid-height.

Getting there
The ideal starting points are Cortina d'Ampezzo and Auronzo.
These can be reached from the north via the Pusteria Valley, or from the south by first taking the motorway (A27) to Longarone and then following the state road northwards. Both points of departure lead to Misurina, from where a private toll-road winds steeply almost to the base of the Tre Cime's south faces. Park the car at Rifugio Auronzo, situated at the end of the road and either sleep here or in Rifugio Lavaredo, reached by following the path for 15 minutes underneath the majestic South Faces which contain, amongst many other famous routes, the Spigolo Giallo.
Gear
Take a full alpine rack including a complete series of friends. All the belays are bolted, while normal pegs were left insitu on the pitches.