The routesClimbing routes
A Tafunata Galattica - Contrafforti di Punta A Muvra
7b+ max 1 section FB7B/RS2/I
Beautiful climbing which varied from slabs to steep overhangs. The fifth pitch presents and beautiful boulder section up a tafoni but this can be avoided by climbing 2 metres to the right, away from the line of bolts. The route...
Alexandra - Punta A Biciartula
6a+
One of the easiest and most recommended climbs in the entire Bavella massif.
Célébration du Lézard - Punta A Biciartula
7a
A little gem, a true masterpiece of Mediterranean granite sport climbing.
Chanson de Pres verts - Rossolino
7a max
On the whole the climbing is less beautiful than that on Ombre e Lumiere, but some pitches are nevertheless interesting and worth doing. The route climbs the right-hand side of the tower, following a series of enormous steps up good...
De rerum natura - Punta U Corbu
7c
Fantastic climbing up pumpy, overhanging cracks on stupendous granite. Acrobatic descent, clip some friends during the abseils to keep close to the rock face.
Delicatessen - Punta di U Corbu
8b
Established in 1992 by the Frenchmen Arnaud Petit and Stéphane Husson, as the name suggests Delicatessen is a strong contender for one of the most beautiful difficult multi-pitches in the world. Petit and Husson forged the line ground-up with the...
Democratia - Punta di U Diamante
6c max
Dèmocratia is a splendid granite route, reminiscent of many alpine outings. Demanding slabs alternate with a difficult central pitch up small crystal knobs. The bolting is excellent and never excessive, while the granite itself is also clean of vegetation. The...
Jeef - Punta U Corbu
7a+ max
Significantly harder than Dos de l’éléphant, Jeef is a masterpiece in terms of beauty and the demanding nature of its climbing - photos of the route have been published in magazines worldwide. 6b is obligatory and potential repeaters should master...
Jimmy - Capu Aliri
6c max
Capu Aliri is a granite dome whose south face rounds off into a series of smooth slabs. The mountain is isolated, located high above the Tavignano valley, and due to its distance from Corte it is best reached from the...
JPQ - Punta di l’Accellu
7a max
This isn't the easiest route up the wall but definitely the most classic, tamed by the bolts placed by the first ascentionist – at times the gear is somewhat irrational. The climbing is varied up perfect rock. The original grades...
Le dos de l'elephant - Punta U Corbu
6c max
Grandiose rock face and beautiful slab route, demanding and exposed despite being reequipped. Some sections climb 5c/6a ground 6m above the last bolt. The complicated approach and length of the route make this an outing which should not be underestimated.
Le non-sens et la joie - Capu Cascioni
8a
A beautiful steep route on orange granite, mainly on gear (14 bolts total). Exposed and sustained climbing on slopers and cracks. Comfortable belays after pitch 3 (P3). The route can be linked with the original classic Enterre mon coeur to...
Ombre et Lumiere - Rossolino
6b/6b+ max
Splendid granite climbing up incredibly weathered rock. The route climbs the left-hand side of the Rossolino pillar wedged in the narrow Tavignano valley and follows a series of fantastic corners and vertical walls with rounded holds. The route is equipped...
Ro.Ma. - Punta U Corbu
7c
Beautiful and hard climb up steep and physical cracks. The last pitch is often wet.
Symponie d'automne - Pointe de Sept Lacs
6a+ max
Symponie d’automne offers superb slab climbing above a deep blue lake. The first pitch is original: a traverse on a metal cable just above the water mark! The route then ascends easy angled slabs and the climb is never excessively...
Vecchia Felpa - Punta di U Peru
7c max /RS2/I
Climbing which is not particularly homogeneous but nevertheless with some interesting pitches. Breaching the overhangs is spectacular and very physical up beautiful rock. The final pitch, up rough granite, is a must despite being psychologically demanding. From the penultimate pitch...
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