Jimmy - Capu Aliri
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Maurizio Oviglia
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Jimmy
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
PGHM Corte
By
Maurizio Oviglia
Orientation
South
Length
130m
Difficulty
6c max
Obligatory difficulty
6b+
Route
Capu Aliri is a granite dome whose south face rounds off into a series of smooth slabs. The mountain is isolated, located high above the Tavignano valley, and due to its distance from Corte it is best reached from the neighbouring valleys, either Calacuccia or Vallèe du Golo, which have discrete dirt tracks. This slab route was first ascended from the ground-up, which means that the pro is at times fairly run-out. Not to be underestimated, this route is recommended for those who easily master its obligatory grade.
Getting there
From Corte follow the road for Ponte Leccia to Francardo. Turn off for Calacuccia and drive up the narrow Gorges du Golo tp Calacuccia (20 km). Before reaching the village turn off for Casamaccioli down the road which crosses the dam. Turn left immediately (signposted for Ref. De la Sega, Foresta de Melo) and follow the road via a series of hair-pin bends upwards. This turns into a dirt track and leads to Bocca à l’Arinella (1592 m). Cross over onto the other side (Tavignano) and follow the road to another small mountain above the rocks which form Capu Aliri (on the right). Park the care here. Access
Follow the cairn markers around the Capu onto the west face (rightwards) to reach the next col. Continue along the base of the face to reach the start on the slabs (15 minutes). Itinerary
P1: 6c
P2: 6b
P3: 6b+ Descent
Scramble down the other face to reach the car.
Gear
12 quickdraws, double 50m x 9mm ropes. The route is equipped with 8mm bolts.
From Corte follow the road for Ponte Leccia to Francardo. Turn off for Calacuccia and drive up the narrow Gorges du Golo tp Calacuccia (20 km). Before reaching the village turn off for Casamaccioli down the road which crosses the dam. Turn left immediately (signposted for Ref. De la Sega, Foresta de Melo) and follow the road via a series of hair-pin bends upwards. This turns into a dirt track and leads to Bocca à l’Arinella (1592 m). Cross over onto the other side (Tavignano) and follow the road to another small mountain above the rocks which form Capu Aliri (on the right). Park the care here. Access
Follow the cairn markers around the Capu onto the west face (rightwards) to reach the next col. Continue along the base of the face to reach the start on the slabs (15 minutes). Itinerary
P1: 6c
P2: 6b
P3: 6b+ Descent
Scramble down the other face to reach the car.
Gear
12 quickdraws, double 50m x 9mm ropes. The route is equipped with 8mm bolts.
Comments
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Beauty
First ascent
PGHM Corte
By
Maurizio Oviglia
Orientation
South
Length
130m
Difficulty
6c max
Obligatory difficulty
6b+
Route
Routes in the same mountain group
Related news
14/07/2001 - Climbing
Corsica rock climbing Climbing on Corsica: a selection of some of the best multi-pitch rock climbs in Bavella, Val Restonica and Valle du Tavignano. By Maurizio Oviglia.