JPQ - Punta di l’Accellu
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Maurizio Oviglia
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JPQ
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Jean Paul Quilici and friends, 08/1987
By
Maurizio Oviglia
Orientation
SE
Length
130m
Difficulty
7a max
Obligatory difficulty
6a
Route
This isn't the easiest route up the wall but definitely the most classic, tamed by the bolts placed by the first ascentionist – at times the gear is somewhat irrational. The climbing is varied up perfect rock. The original grades are excessively severe, above all when compared to the sport climbing sectors below. The final 7a pitch climbs an unpleasant off-width and can easily be avoided by climbing to the left.
Getting there
From Zonza or Solenzara reach Col di Bavella (1218m). Park the car at the col. Access
From the col head NW down the Zonza side of the mountain. A good path leads to the base of the crags. Keep left (yellow markers) and ascend a gully to reach a col. Cross this, reach the ridge and continue SE to the base of the wall (45 minutes from the col). Itinerary
P1: 6a+
P2: 6a
P3: 6b
P4: 6b/c
P5: 7a Descent
Abseil down the line of ascent (50m ropes, prussik loops). Gear
12 quickdraws, double 50m x 9mm ropes. The route is equipped with 8 and 10mm bolts.
From Zonza or Solenzara reach Col di Bavella (1218m). Park the car at the col. Access
From the col head NW down the Zonza side of the mountain. A good path leads to the base of the crags. Keep left (yellow markers) and ascend a gully to reach a col. Cross this, reach the ridge and continue SE to the base of the wall (45 minutes from the col). Itinerary
P1: 6a+
P2: 6a
P3: 6b
P4: 6b/c
P5: 7a Descent
Abseil down the line of ascent (50m ropes, prussik loops). Gear
12 quickdraws, double 50m x 9mm ropes. The route is equipped with 8 and 10mm bolts.
Comments
16/06/2005 lozzi maurizio
primi due tiri senza infamia e senza lode su placca e fessura ,terzo tiro stupendo su granito spaziale e uscita bella e ignorante !quando ho fatto la via io ,mi sembrava fosse da integrare con frend e nut ,l'unico tiro protetto bene a spit era il terzo ,vista l'impossibilita di trovare posti dove mettere f&nut quando siamo arrivati in vetta è arrivata la nebbia e la discesa dopo la prima calata ?ravanata
12/01/2005 Tommaso
Lontano ricordo, alle nostre prime esperienze su vie lunghe....e lontani da casa.Ambiente solitario e aspro per una bella salita su placche granitiche con chiodatura onesta e mai pericolosa.Non abbiamo trovato l'ultima sosta e cosi siamo scesi a piedi (solo una doppia per evitare una salto di roccia, dentro una nicchia doppi spit) ma forse più per la nostra inesperienza che per la reale assenza.Portare dei frendini per sicurezza e non sbagliare l'attacco tra le molte vie presenti!
Beauty
First ascent
Jean Paul Quilici and friends, 08/1987
By
Maurizio Oviglia
Orientation
SE
Length
130m
Difficulty
7a max
Obligatory difficulty
6a
Route
Routes in the same mountain group
Related news
14/07/2001 - Climbing
Corsica rock climbing Climbing on Corsica: a selection of some of the best multi-pitch rock climbs in Bavella, Val Restonica and Valle du Tavignano. By Maurizio Oviglia.