A Tafunata Galattica - Contrafforti di Punta A Muvra
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A Tafunata Galattica
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
First ascent and redpoint: Luca Giupponi & Nicola Sartori, 1/2/3 May 2012. Direct variation finish established by Rolando Larcher & Maurizio Oviglia on 03/05/2012
By
Maurizio Oviglia
Length
185m
Height
1.212m
Difficulty
7b+ max 1 section FB7B/RS2/I
Beautiful climbing which varied from slabs to steep overhangs. The fifth pitch presents and beautiful boulder section up a tafoni but this can be avoided by climbing 2 metres to the right, away from the line of bolts. The route exit on the left, where it joins "Bleau comme l'enfer" contains a 7B boulder crux, a compression up the vertical face. The exit on the right is spectacular.
Descent
Abseil down the route (2 x 60m ropes). Gear
Bolts have only been placed in sections which are otherwise unprotectable. A set of camming devices is necessary up to #3, slings and kevlar threads, two 60m ropes. Notes
Thanks to Petzl, La Sportiva, Marmot, Mammut, Montura, E9, Ferrino, Totem Cams
Nicola Sartori is a member of Guide XM
Abseil down the route (2 x 60m ropes). Gear
Bolts have only been placed in sections which are otherwise unprotectable. A set of camming devices is necessary up to #3, slings and kevlar threads, two 60m ropes. Notes
Thanks to Petzl, La Sportiva, Marmot, Mammut, Montura, E9, Ferrino, Totem Cams
Nicola Sartori is a member of Guide XM
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Beauty
First ascent
First ascent and redpoint: Luca Giupponi & Nicola Sartori, 1/2/3 May 2012. Direct variation finish established by Rolando Larcher & Maurizio Oviglia on 03/05/2012
By
Maurizio Oviglia
Length
185m
Height
1.212m
Difficulty
7b+ max 1 section FB7B/RS2/I
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