The routes

Pleasant outing first climbed by Maurizio Bergamo and Ferruccio Svaluto Moreolo. The route follows the large crack that is reached on pitch 2 and follows this all the way to the top, hence it's "classic" nature.

The obvious Capo d’Uomo arête exerts a strong draw as you observe it from the path that leads to this ridge, and gives the impression that it sinks straight down into the sea. I was very torn about whether to...

A relatively easy and popular climb (UIAA 4 and 5, one 6- crux) up the left-hand arête of the Pilastro della Tofana di Rozes. The three hard pitches traverse leftwards past two large yellow roofs at half height. Paradoxically, the...

A splendid historic route, one of the best in the Dolomites. Despite numerous repeats the rock is still excellent with plenty of threads.

This rock climb was first ascended in 1982 by Umberto Marampon on his own in 14 hours. 8 pitches lead up the SE arete of the spectacular Pedra Longa tower, above the Baunei sea. Attention: one section of loose rock.

Every year hundreds of climbers flock to the Spigolo Giallo. Few routes have such a perfect line, and few routes get quite so crowded. It is best climbed out of season and preferably avoided at the weekends. The difficult sections...

This is one of the most interesting and popular climbs in the vicinity of Cortina. It tackles the cracklines up the Punta Fiames’ obvious, airy arête.

Great route established by Massimo Da Pozzo up the second arête on the Pilastro della Tofana di Rozes.With all belays equipped for the abseils and its south facing orientation, Spigolo Sam is certainly an interesting outing on one of the...

An aesthetic and exposed line up the imposing NW arête which goes free at 7a. The rock is fairly solid, except for on the first pitches it shares with Via Cassin.

This long route takes the arête on the extreme right-hand side of the Col dei Bos, and is never harder than 4/5. It is renowned for its beauty and excellent rock, and it too can be climbed early and late...

Summer 2012, along with my tireless friend Helmut Gargitter, a talented alpinist and strong mountain guide, we've managed to establish another difficult route up the outstanding south face of Col Bechei.The route is located on the righthand side and follows...

A logical route, previously noticed by climbers from Avio but completed by Beppe Vidali and Sergio Coltri. Excellent rock, difficulties never too extreme, set in a wild area yet accessable area. Bolted climb with a distinctly alpine feel.

This new bolt route is sustained but never particularly difficult. These two characteristics, combined with its setting and excellent rock, ensure that Spitagoras will become very popular.

Stairway to Heaven was established with 10mm bolts, meaning that 8 quickdraws, a single rope and cordlette are all you need to repeat it. All the belay stations are equipped with maillon rapide for the abseils, but you’ll need to...

'Great climbing, demanding, up good rock, at times excellent.' This is the description of Stigmata, the climb established ground-up by Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher to the left of the famous Livanos Pillar on Heiligkreuzkofel, the mountain that dominates Val...

Great 5-pitch line established by Massimiliano Celano and Tiziano Marchetti in September 2012.