The routes

Climbing routes

631
Routes in archive
Maleficent
Maleficent - Cimone della Bagozza
7c+, RS4
Maleficent tackles the the central section of the NW Face, climbing the compact slabs using a more modern approach than the older routes. It was climbed ground-up with a mix of pegs and a few bolts placed where rests were...
Weg der Neugier
Weg der Neugier - Einserkofel
XI-
Weg der Neugier was established ground-up in summer 2015 by Hannes Pfeifhofer, Lisi Steurer, Markus Tschurtschenthaler with bolts past difficulties estimated at IX-.
Il bianco calimero
Il bianco calimero - Croz del rifugio
6c
Rock climb first ascended by Andrea Galizzi, Francesco Carrara and Gabriele Carrara up the East Face of Croz del rifugio. Bolted belays.
Via 10
Via 10 - Sasso di Fontana Mora
7b+
The result is a quality climb, requiring good technique and footwork up the slightly overhanging face.
Dolomiti Super Ski-Fo
Dolomiti Super Ski-Fo - Sasso Alto
7b (A0) 7a obbl.; SR2
Route established ground-up. All belays have been equipped with two bolts, thread and maillon rapide for the abseil. This is a modern alpine undertaking, with run-out but safe gear, past hard obligatory climbing. The route climbs steep slabs up excellent...
Via Phoenix (via della Fenice)
Via Phoenix (via della Fenice) - Secondo Campanile di Val Orsera
V+, some sections VI+
Via Phoenix (via della Fenice) was climbed ground-up over two days, with a bivi at the base of the face. It climbs the Secondo Campanile in Val Orsera and, as such, is the first and only route to climb this...
Cani Sciolti
Cani Sciolti - Parete di Solada
still to be defined, VIII/A1
Parete di Solada is a beautiful face which contains just one other climb, on the left, called Il teorema di Solà, put up by Glauco Cugini and Christian Ferrari in 2001. Cani sciolti follows a logical line past the points...
Lucertolaia
Lucertolaia - Lastoni di Formin, Pilastro di sinistra
VIII. 7a+, VIII
Lucertolaia on Lastoni di Formin in the Italian Dolomites is a route with a both traditional and modern feel to it, almost Californian with belays that are mainly bolted and the pitches that need protecting with trad gear as they...
Giallomania
Giallomania - Monte Spitz
7c/8a
Giallomania breaches the most repulsive sections of the West Face Monte Spitz searching for the line of least resistance. After pitch 5 it is no longer possible to abseil down the route. The route seeps after extended periods of...
The Change Experience
The Change Experience - Karambony tower - Ecole
8b, A2
Over six days in April 2015 the Iranian climbers Hassan Gerami, Hamid Reza Shafaghi and Farshad Mijoji forged The Change Experience up the Ecole Tower. The 11 pitch, circa 440m high route was climbed ground-up. While pitches 1, 10 and...
Spéléologie
Spéléologie - Caiat, Akchour
7a
The Caiat massif offers beautiful climbing on its splendid limestone walls. The potential for new routing is enormous. This route in the Akchour valley was established ground-up from 22 to 25 February 2015. Since the route weaves its way through...
4 Gewinnt
4 Gewinnt - Pantherkopf
VIII+
Demanding and serious climbing on perfect and varied Wetterstein limestone. You need to be good at placing trad gear and the upper UIAA VIII should be well in your grasp.
Vento di passioni
Vento di passioni - Monte Colodri
7-, A1
Trad route with long sections that need protecting with nuts & friends.
Le Petit Homme et la Grande Femme
Le Petit Homme et la Grande Femme - Eldorado - Chiusa di Ceraino
6c+
The easiest route up the Eldorado face at Chiusa di Ceraino, first ascended by Andrea Simonini in 2015
Alpinstil
Alpinstil - Telendos
7c+
Difficult new sports climb in the Inspiration cave on the south face of the characteristic peak that dominates Telendos, established ground-up over two days by Mich Kemeter, Jürgen Reinmüller and Roger Schäli.


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