The routes

Climbing routes

623
Routes in archive
Lucertolaia
Lucertolaia - Lastoni di Formin, Pilastro di sinistra
VIII. 7a+, VIII
Lucertolaia on Lastoni di Formin in the Italian Dolomites is a route with a both traditional and modern feel to it, almost Californian with belays that are mainly bolted and the pitches that need protecting with trad gear as they...
Giallomania
Giallomania - Monte Spitz
7c/8a
Giallomania breaches the most repulsive sections of the West Face Monte Spitz searching for the line of least resistance. After pitch 5 it is no longer possible to abseil down the route. The route seeps after extended periods of...
The Change Experience
The Change Experience - Karambony tower - Ecole
8b, A2
Over six days in April 2015 the Iranian climbers Hassan Gerami, Hamid Reza Shafaghi and Farshad Mijoji forged The Change Experience up the Ecole Tower. The 11 pitch, circa 440m high route was climbed ground-up. While pitches 1, 10 and...
Spéléologie
Spéléologie - Caiat, Akchour
7a
The Caiat massif offers beautiful climbing on its splendid limestone walls. The potential for new routing is enormous. This route in the Akchour valley was established ground-up from 22 to 25 February 2015. Since the route weaves its way through...
4 Gewinnt
4 Gewinnt - Pantherkopf
VIII+
Demanding and serious climbing on perfect and varied Wetterstein limestone. You need to be good at placing trad gear and the upper UIAA VIII should be well in your grasp.
Vento di passioni
Vento di passioni - Monte Colodri
7-, A1
Trad route with long sections that need protecting with nuts & friends.
Le Petit Homme et la Grande Femme
Le Petit Homme et la Grande Femme - Eldorado - Chiusa di Ceraino
6c+
The easiest route up the Eldorado face at Chiusa di Ceraino, first ascended by Andrea Simonini in 2015
Alpinstil
Alpinstil - Telendos
7c+
Difficult new sports climb in the Inspiration cave on the south face of the characteristic peak that dominates Telendos, established ground-up over two days by Mich Kemeter, Jürgen Reinmüller and Roger Schäli.
Nato due volte
Nato due volte - Monte Gallo (Nuovo Mondo)
7a+
Varied and interesting climbing rock up beautifully featured rock.
Neolit
Neolit - Piz dla Dorada
IX-
Neolit breaches superlative rock up the sunny Piz dla Dorada face above the small village of Kolfuschg in the Gadertal - Alta Badia. It shares the first two pitches of Pescione ed Airona before breaking off left to follow the...
Spaßbremse
Spaßbremse - Piz dla Dorada
7+/8-
Climbed over two days onsight, Spaßbremse breaches difficulties up to 7+/8- and offers “beautiful climbing up dreamlike rock.” Just like nearby Neolit, this route was climbed without bolts.
Spirito Baldense
Spirito Baldense - Spalti di Pratovecchio
6b
A logical route, previously noticed by climbers from Avio but completed by Beppe Vidali and Sergio Coltri. Excellent rock, difficulties never too extreme, set in a wild area yet accessable area. Bolted climb with a distinctly alpine feel.
L'Ora del Garda
L'Ora del Garda - Mandrea Arco
8a
Demanding and sustained climb."All said are done there are 10 pitches, 9 new ones plus a final easy pitch shared with another route. The route climbs an extraordinary void, offers a nice variety of climbing styles the demand a disturbing...
Fuori come Merli
Fuori come Merli - Eldorado - Chiusa di Ceraino
7c
Opened ground-up, using skyhooks to place the bolts, Fuori come Merli is 120m high and spectacular. Beautiful beyond belief, the first two pitches that are a work of art of Mother Nature. The central roof tackles a logical line before...
Dawn Wall
Dawn Wall - El Capitan
VII 5.14d or 5.14d
On 14 January 2015, after 19 days on the wall and years of efforts, American climbers Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson completed the historic first free ascent of Dawn Wall on El Capitan, Yosemite, USA. Almost 1000m high and with...
Piccolo Diavolo
Piccolo Diavolo - Monte Colodri
8a
Piccolo Diavolo was bolted in 2011 during three days and breaches excellent rock. Six long pitches climb the full height of the South Face of Colodri, with difficulties up to 8a past obligatory 7a climbing. The first pitches are a...


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