The routes

Climbing routes

623
Routes in archive
Destini Incrociati
Destini Incrociati - Monte Cimo - Castel Presina Parete Rossa
8a (7b obligatory.), S3 (3m-7m runouts),
Highly technical climbing on slightly overhanging rock, with a crux slab pitch. Strong fingers needed for the small crimps. Redpoint repeat: Andrea Simonini and Rolando Larcher. No on-sight as yet. Best time of year: October to April.
Voodoo - Zauber
Voodoo - Zauber - Heiligkreuzkofel
IX-
Over a three day period in September 2014 the South Tyrolean mountaineers Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher forged a new rock climb up Heiligkreuzkofel, also referred to as Sass de la Crusc. Voodoo-Zauber, climbs six independent pitches up the righthand...
Heroes
Heroes - Pizzo Campana - Rocca Busambra
6b+
Interesting modern route up the North Face.
Itu Damagoni - Il mio veleno
Itu Damagoni - Il mio veleno - Aguglia di Goloritzé
7a
The massive free-standing Aguglia towers high above Cala Goloritzè, one of Sardinia's most beautiful bays. Its Verdonesque limestone walls offer unparalleled technical slab climbing in fantastic surroundings - a must!Itu Damagoni - Il mio veleno is a beautiful sport climb,...
Dolomitspit
Dolomitspit - Sas Ciampac
VII
Beautiful south facing rock climb, recommended in spring or summer. Dolomitspit was first ascended over a period of three days from 2007 to 2015. Protected by pegs and trad gear, as well as some bolts at the belays. Calculate between...
50 anni son volati, 50 regalati
50 anni son volati, 50 regalati - Monte Fibbion
8a+
Beautiful route up excellent rock, only 6 pitches long but demanding throughout. Protected by a mix of bolts and trad gear. 5 technical pitches up rough rock lead to the athletic and pumpy final pitch with a 10m overhang above...
CAI don't cry
CAI don't cry - Sass de Mura
VIII+, R3
CAI don't cry up the North Face of Sass de Mura was established during 2 separate moments, swinging leads, and freed on a Sunday accompanied by Daniel Sampieri who supported us and encouraged us all the way.
La Guerriera
La Guerriera - Cima Bassa d'Ambiez
7b
La Guerriera was established after having discovered the line abseiling off Sguardo al Passato. 9 pitches and 290m lead to the top of the route, circa 150m short of the summit which...
Maleficent
Maleficent - Cimone della Bagozza
7c+, RS4
Maleficent tackles the the central section of the NW Face, climbing the compact slabs using a more modern approach than the older routes. It was climbed ground-up with a mix of pegs and a few bolts placed where rests were...
Weg der Neugier
Weg der Neugier - Einserkofel
XI-
Weg der Neugier was established ground-up in summer 2015 by Hannes Pfeifhofer, Lisi Steurer, Markus Tschurtschenthaler with bolts past difficulties estimated at IX-.
Il bianco calimero
Il bianco calimero - Croz del rifugio
6c
Rock climb first ascended by Andrea Galizzi, Francesco Carrara and Gabriele Carrara up the East Face of Croz del rifugio. Bolted belays.
Via 10
Via 10 - Sasso di Fontana Mora
7b+
The result is a quality climb, requiring good technique and footwork up the slightly overhanging face.
Dolomiti Super Ski-Fo
Dolomiti Super Ski-Fo - Sasso Alto
7b (A0) 7a obbl.; SR2
Route established ground-up. All belays have been equipped with two bolts, thread and maillon rapide for the abseil. This is a modern alpine undertaking, with run-out but safe gear, past hard obligatory climbing. The route climbs steep slabs up excellent...
Via Phoenix (via della Fenice)
Via Phoenix (via della Fenice) - Secondo Campanile di Val Orsera
V+, some sections VI+
Via Phoenix (via della Fenice) was climbed ground-up over two days, with a bivi at the base of the face. It climbs the Secondo Campanile in Val Orsera and, as such, is the first and only route to climb this...
Cani Sciolti
Cani Sciolti - Parete di Solada
still to be defined, VIII/A1
Parete di Solada is a beautiful face which contains just one other climb, on the left, called Il teorema di Solà, put up by Glauco Cugini and Christian Ferrari in 2001. Cani sciolti follows a logical line past the points...


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